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563 

'1)4- 



ETIN No. 41 

U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE 

DIVISION OF CHEMISTRY 



REPORT 



ON THK 



EXTENT AND CHARACTER 



OF 



FOOD AND DRUG ADULTERATION 



BY 



ALEX. J. \VEDDERBURN 



PUBLISHED BY ORDER OF CONGRESS 

(Act approved August 8, 1894) 



washi:n^gto:n^ 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 
1894 



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Class. 
Book. 



Li^Md 



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Bulletin No. 41 



U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE 

'I 

DIVISION OF CHEMISTRY 



'21 

REPORT 



9^ 



ON THE 



EXTENT AND CHARACTER 



OF 



FOOD AND DRUG ADULTERATION 



BY 



ALEX. J. ^VEDDERBURN 



PUBLISHED BY ORDER OF CONGRESS 

(Act approved August 8, 1894) 



WASHIXGTOX 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 

1894 



ut^ 



.: 6 



^^ 



/ 



MAY 13 1907 
D. of 0. 



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7 



LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. 



U. S. Department of Agriculture, 

Division of Che3iistry, 
Washington, D. C, May 10, 1894. 
Sir: I have the honor to present herewith, at your request, the 
manuscrii)t, i:)repared by Mr. A. J. Weddcrburn, speci.al agent, embracing 
his third report on the extent and character of adulterations of food and 
drugs. 

Very respectfully, 

H. W. Wiley, 
Chief of the Division of Chemistry. 
Hon. J. Sterling Morton, 

jSecretary. 

3 



LETTER OF SUBMITTAL. 



U. S. Department of Agriculture, 

Division of Chemistry, 
Washington, D. C, July 1, 1894, 
Sir : In compliance with my commission as special agent to examine 
into tlie extent and character of food and drug adulterations, I have 
the honor to submit the following report. Increased interest in this 
subject, as shown by the great increase in correspondence, has compelled 
me to go over the old ground to a considerable extent, but I believe 
that new and interesting matter will be found herein. The character 
of my commission did not authorize investigation of the scientific phases 
of the subject which are so ably covered in the various parts of Bulletin 
lS<o. 13, issued under your direction. 
Very respectfully, 

Alex. J. Wedderburn, 

Sj^ecial Agent. 
Dr. H. W. Wiley, 

Chemist of the U. S. Department of Agriculture. 



CONTENTS. 



rage. 

Letter of transmittal 3 

Letter of submittal 5 

Prefatory note ...^.. 9 

Introductory ^... ^ ....... ^ . ^ 11 

Opinions of State and municipal officers and others regarding- the adulteration 

of food and drugs - 18 

Alabama 18 

California. ^.. ^ . . . 18 

Colorado 20 

Connecticut , 20 

District of Columbia . 22 

Florida 23 

Georgia 23 

Illinois 21 

Indiana 24 

Iowa 25 

Kansas 25 

Kentucky 26 

Louisiana 26 

Maine 26 

Maryland 27 

Massachusetts 28 

Michigan 29 

Minnesota 29 

Missouri 30 

Montana 32 

Nebraska 32 

New Hampshire 32 

New Jersey 33 

New York 33 

North Carolina 35 

North Dakota 35 

Ohio _ 35 

Oregon 37 

Pennsylvania 38 

South Carolina 42 

Vermont 42 

West Virginia 43 

Wisconsin 43 

Adulterants of some foods nnd drugs 50 

Absinthe 50 

Alcohol 50 

Alcoholic liqiiors 50 

Ales, English and American 50 

7 



8 

Adulterants of some foods and drugs — Continued. Page. 

Ammonia 50 

Baking powders 50 

Beer 51 

Black i)epper 51 

Bread 51 

Butter 51 

Candy 51 

Cider , 51 

Dried apples 51 

Eggs 51 

Glucose 51 

Glycerin 51 

Infant foods 51 

Mace 52 

Shrimps 52 

Seidlitz powder 52 

Soap 52 

Water 52 

Wine 52 

Miscellaneous information relating to food adulteration. . ^ 53 

Adulterated beer 53 

Poisoned by tinned beef 53 

The retailer not always to blame 53 

Adulteration of dairy products 54 

Use and adulteration of milk ^57 

A national standard for cheese ^ 60 

Milk standards 62 

Food legislation and foreign trade 63 

Maximum water allowable in butter 63 

LaV'?\ing products truthfully 64 



PREFATORY NOTE. 



On the appointmeut of Mr. A. J. Wedderburn as special agent of tlie 
Department, a circnlar approved by the Assistant Secretary of Agri- 
cnltare was sent to about 9,000 druggists and to all the officers and 
members of State pharmaceutical and dairy associations whose 
addresses could be obtained. The text of this circular was as follows: 

Please furnish me with any information that you may have in relation to the use 
of pepsin or black pepsin in Cso-called) butter-making. I should be glad to learn 
also anything in relation to any other butter and cheese adulterants and to obtain 
any reliable data concerning the adulteration of children's foods, dairy and phar-, 
maceutical preparations. I inclose franked envelope for replj^ 

■ Please furnish me the names and addresses which you may know of any State or 
municipal officials charged with executing the laws relating to the adulteration of 
foods and drugs, also the names of officers or members of the jiharmaceutical asso- 
ciations and dairy organizations m your State, and oblige. 

Many replies were received to this circular. Mr, Wedderburu during 
his service as special agent classified and abstracted the greater number 
of them, but the material was not entirely put in shape for publication. 
By instructions of the Secretary of Agriculture I have endeavored to 
complete this work and prepare the material for transmittal. The 
details of the work and the use to be made of the material collected 
were left entirely to the judgment of the special agent. 

All the information in regard to the use of black pepsin has been 
omitted for the reason that the subject is fully discussed in Farmers' 
Bulletin No. 12. 

The Chief of the Division of Chemistry does not hold himself in any 
way responsible for the opinions of the correspondents quoted in the 
selections made for publication, nor for all the conclusions arrived at 
by the compiler. In fact, there are many cases in which these opin- 
ions are without doubt erroneous, as where one correspondent describes 
flour as largely adulterated with " earth from the South," and another 
asserts that the sugars of commerce are also adulterated, and where a 
third affirms that artificial eggs are manufactured. 

The iuformation which is here presented illustrates the attitude of 
the public mind to the i)rob]em of adulteration. It is hardly necessary 

9 



10 

to call attention here to tlie fiict that the publicldeas of adulteration of 
food are in many cases very much exaggerated, and this, perhaps, is the 
cause of the many extravagant assertions which are made. 

The arrangement of the material m this bulletin was a matter of 
careful consideration, and it was deemed best to make as few changes 
in the original matter as were compatible with a proper classification 
of the data at hand. The changes, furthermore, made by me in the 
manuscript are only such as have helped to a better statement of the 
facts or to correct errors overlooked by the compiler. 

H. W. Wiley, 
Cliief of the Division of Chemistry. 



REPORT ON THE EXTENT AND CHARACTER OF FOOD AND DRUG 

ADULTERATION. 



By Alex. J. Wedderhukn. 



INTRODUCTORY, 



The discussion of food adulteration in this country and the conse- 
quent agitation of the subject have drawn the attention of foreigners 
to the fiict that adulteration exists among us to a greater or less 
degree, and the result is that the foreign competitors of our manufactur- 
ers of food products have used the fact to their own advantage, and 
America to-day occupies the unenviable position of being one of the 
very few countries of Christendom that fail to require by law the 
proper branding of their manufactured food and drugs. Whether such 
requirements would accomplish the desired result is beyond the power 
of anyone to say, but the evil would no doubt be mitigated by whole- 
some legislation, and this belief is sustained by the results of the food 
laws of England and other foreign countries, as well as of the various 
States. The concurrent testimony of State officials charged with the 
enforcement of State and local laws is that a national law is necessary 
to secure the proper enforcement of State laws. Ko well-informed 
constitutional lawyer will dispute the fact that so long as the ^' origi- 
nal-package" decision stands as law, it will be impossible for any 
State, no matter how stringent its laws, or how efficient its officers, to 
fully execute them. If this be true, and tlie fact be established that 
adulterations exist to any considerable extent or that they are harmful to 
health, morals, or industry, and the writer believes the facts sustain the 
assertion, then the need for a Federal law is imjierative. There can be 
no doubt that the effort to purge the country of this crime is doing- 
good and aids in keeping down the adulteration of the products we 
consume, but each year brings to light new articles in which some 
intelligent "artist" has discerned a jnethodto improve the profit if not 
the quality of the article sold. 

That almost every article of food and drug used in our country is 
adulterated to a greater or less extent is proved most conclusively by 
a vast amount of information gathered upon the subject by the Divi- 
sion of Chemistry of the Department of Agriculture, and referred to 

11 



12 

tlie writer for compilation and report. The extent of these sophistica- 
tions can be trnthfuUy said to be as broad as the continent. 

Their character, however, is such as to injure the pocket rather than 
the healtli. The general character of food adulterations is principally 
commercial fraud, and the extent of criminal or poisonous adulter- 
ations in food is so limited as to amount to but a bagatelle in the 
immense sum of the products consumed. I am convinced that a 
large ])roportion of poisonous adulterations arises from carelessness 
and ignorance, rather than from any desire to injure the customer to 
whom sale is made. But ignorance is no excuse for the wholesale 
destruction of life by the addition of i^oisonous pigments to many arti- 
cles of food, especially confectionery, cream, and like articles. It would 
occupy too much space to show the numerous cases of poisoning from 
eating cream, cakes, candies,, cheese, pickles, canned goods, etc., and 
would add little value to this report j but the fact that such occurrences 
are not only common but frequent shows the existence of an evil that 
demands the strictest remedial legislation possible. 

The existence of adulterations is conclusively proved in the pages 
of Bulletins Nos. 13 (parts 1 to 8), 25, and 32, issued by the Division 
of Chemistry of the Department of Agriculture 5 by every report of 
State officials, where such exist; by testimony from every State where 
investigations have been set on foot by pharmaceutical or pure-food 
associations; by the testimony herewith submitted from every quarter 
of this country, and by the admissions of the adulterators themselves. 

That adulteration is general and increasing is ]3roved in the following 
pages, as is also the fact that no kind of food, drugs, or liquors is free 
from the finishing touches of the manipulators. It may be, therefore, 
concluded that the practice is general and the character principally 
fraudulent, with but occasional criminal additions, the latter, however, 
too frequently causing loss of life and health. Ignorance and vice go 
hand in hand in their destructive game, yet, whether the intent be crim- 
inal and vicious, or simply fraudulent, the result is the same, and the 
people suffer and will continue to suffer until the strong hand of Federal 
law steps in to supi^lement and sui^port the action of the States. 

As to the harmfulness of these practices, one has but to read the 
results of coroners^ inquests, in all sections of the Union, to determine 
for himself that question. When illness and death occur from eating 
or drinking some attractive and beautifully prepared article of food, 
the fact that harm exists is proved. In a previous report I have shown 
that death resulted from the use of chrome yellow not only to the cus- 
tomer, but also to the vendor and members of Ms family. This did not 
of necessity prove the man who used and sold the article a knave, but 
it i^roved him a fool. Now, to prevent a repetition of such occurrences, 
the law should comi)el tlie man who manufactured the coloring matter 
to brand it so that even the most ignorant could distinguish its harm- 
ful qualities, and thereby at least restrict the use of such articles. 



13 

In such cases ignorance sliould he no excuse for crimes perpetrated 
for the purpose of gain. The murder of one innocent, like tlie chihl in 
Brooklyn, who was killed by eating a '^ greened" pickle, was more of 
a crime against human rights than all the restrictive laws that could 
be put upon the Federal statutes. It is generally conceded by my 
correspondents that a Federal law will secure prompt action on the 
part of those States which have failed to take action in this matter, and 
thus lessen the chances for like occurrences. 

In the case of drugs the extraction of their strength, their manu- 
focture in a careless manner, or the substitution of an inferior article, 
are other matters entirely, and are not only crimes against the pocket, 
but against health and life. Nearly all of the States, recognizing the 
necessity for the prevention of crimes of this character, have stringent 
pharmacy laws, the enforcement of which is not only beneficial to the 
public but also of untold value to the reputable druggist, Avho is as anx- 
ious to prevent fraud as anyone. 

The reports of the various pharmaceutical associations of the country 
show that the members are earnest advocates of pure drugs, and yet 
the reports of their various committees on deterioration and adultera- 
tion all show the existence to a greater or less extent of adulterations. 
Letters from leading men in the business say that until the Federal 
Government enacts a law which will prevent the shipment of articles 
from one State to another unless j)roi)erly branded. State laws to pre- 
vent the sale of such articles must of necessity prove ineffective. 

Adulterations in our food, our drugs, and drinks exist to a very 
great extent in every State. In x)revious bulletins — Xos. 25 and 32 — 
the writer has claimed, from data at hand, that the extent of adultera- 
tion is not less than 15 per cent, and he is still convinced that this is 
rather below than above the mark. Of this amount probably only 2 
per cent is of an injurious character to health, but Avhen we remember 
that to fnrnish 65,000,000 people with food, drink, and drugs costs not 
less than $6,760,000,000 (allowing the average cost per capita to be 
only $2 per week), we find by calculation that the amount of adultera- 
tion reaches the immense sum of 81,014,000,000 annually, and as the 
population increases each year so will increase this constant drain 
upon the resources of the people. It may be said that a large propor- 
tion of this is simply a deterioration, and that the purchaser gets value 
for his money and is benefited by the reduced price. Were this true, 
the loss still falls upon the producer of the genuine article, and it must 
be recollected that at least 2 per cent of the whole is of a character 
deleterious to health, which amounts to the sum of $135,200,000 as the 
annual amount paid by the American people for having their lives 
taken or their health injured. 

Ko one attempts to controvert the assertion that when a purchaser 
tries to buy an article, and is ready to pay for it the price asked, he 
should be given that article and not a substitute, even if the substi- 



14 

fcute be better, unless its true character be explained. It is claimed by 
tlie vendor of adulterated goods that the demand for cheap goods 
causes the supply; that the desire to get something for nothing ends 
in compelliug sophistications. Admitting the justice of such a line of 
argument, it only goes to show the utter disregard people have for 
their own comfort and pockets, and their absolute ignorance upon mat- 
ters relating to tlieir health. People Avho take it for granted that what 
they eat is all right will take very great care about selecting their shoes 
and clothes. Under such circumstances, and believing that there exists 
no more serious or exhaustive drain upon the resources of the people 
than tlie adulteration of their food and drug products, I take it that 
the Federal Government should enact a law of such a character as to 
prevent the transportation of misbranded, poisonous, or deleterious 
food and drug x>roducts from one State or Territory into another, not 
interfering with the police i)owers of the States. This being done, the 
various State laws would become effective, and by systematic effort on 
the part of officials or honest dealers and manufacturers, adulterations 
Avould be reduced to a minimum and millions of dollars saved annually 
to the country. 

Fortunately most of these adulterations are commercial frauds only, 
but these in themselves produce others and degrade the tone of moral- 
ity. They would be rejected by the majority of dealers and manufac- 
turers if the law enabled them to compete with dislionesty, but so long 
as no restriction is placed upon the evil-doer so loug will he attempt to 
make money by swindling his fellows, and naturally the more honest 
man, finding his business ruined by the pirate, without chance for 
redres^ or relief, drifts into the same channel and becomes a party to 
the crime by adopting the methods and practices of the rogue. 

The law should not be made to discriminate against one class of 
manufacturers or i)roducers at the expense of another, equality before 
the law being the fundamental i^rinciple of our Government; but as 
the necessity for law exists only to insure tlie life, liberty, and hai)pi- 
ness of our x)eoj)le, its i^rovince is undoubtedly to protect the weak and 
restrain the strong, esx^ecially when by misrepresentation frauds are 
put upon the people in the essentials of life and health, and the prod- 
ucts of honest manufacture and agriculture are debased, as is done 
when a food or drug product is sold under a misleading brand, or for 
something which it is not, thereby reducing the value of the real prod- 
uct. In many cases the masquerader usurps the market and destroys 
the genuine article. Honest business is thus demoralized, and when our 
products seek a foreign market they are met b}^ the foreign inspector, 
who at once discovers the fraud and advertises to the world our peo- 
ple as a set of swindlers, and our Government as the abetter and 
aider in the crime, , because it fails to do as all other civilized and 
Christian lands do, viz, see that the products sold to the people are 
branded true to name. Repeated instances of exposure of fraud in 



. 15 

American food i^roducts have been made in Europe and South America. 
The result has been to greatly restrict trade with our neighbors — trade 
essential to the material prosperity of our agricultural interests. Proof 
of this interference \yith American exjoorts is amx)le, and data could be 
secured to fill a volume, but I deem such matter unnecessary. I quote, 
however, from the Baltimore Sun the following extract, contained in 
an article written for that paper by Prof. William P. Tonry, one of the 
most eminent analytical chemists of the country, which goes to show 
w^hat effect adulteration has in shutting out our commerce from the 
nations of the world in even so comparatively insignificant an article 
as candy: 

As to the commercial results of the adulteration of candies, a confectioner whose 
reputation for absolutely pure confectionery is unquestioned told me that his sales 
per annum did amount to $96,000, of which about $40,000 were export trade to South 
American, West Indian, and Mexican ports. Philadelphia, New York, and Boston 
houses entered the same field and, placing their goods at a lower figure, did for a 
short time supply a good article, but soon replaced it by the adulterated. The 
result was that the customer refused to have the American article at any i^rice, and 
the local Spanish dealers now send to Barcelona, Spaiu, for a pure candy. The less 
discriminating consumers here give preference to adulterated articles, which can be 
purchased cheaper, and thus $40,000 export trade and $50,000 home trade are the 
penalty one house alone has had to pay for adherence to unadulterated goods, while 
the commercial reputation of the United States has been very much dexireciated, if 
not entirely blasted. 

It is claimed that the Federal Governmeut has no right to interfere 
with what a man buys or sells, no right to interfere with what he eats 
or drinks, or to bother as to whether he deceive his customer or not — 
that all such questions are to be decided by tlie several States and the 
individuals themselves. It may be true that the Government has no 
right to interfere in these matters, but when, from the very nature of 
the Constitution, Congress alone can enable the States to enforce their 
own laws, such legislation should be enacted as will x)ermit them to 
make efieccive laws enacted by their legislatures. Congress alone has 
power to regulate commerce between the States, and until it enacts 
laws providiug for the prevention of the transportation from one State 
into another of the adulterated food and drug products no State law 
can be enforced. 

If any foreign Government were to interfere with the business rights 
of our x^eople the Federal Government would retaliate; but in the case 
of an adulteration the Federal Government, it is claimed, has no right 
to interfere, and the honest, industrious citizen is frozen out of busi- 
ness while the scam}) is permitted to continue his nefarious and unholy 
practices. Counterfeiters of money are restrained, violators of the 
revenue laws are held in check, pirates are summarily disposed of, but 
those who counterfeit food and drugs, violate the various State laws, 
and bring dishonor on the country by pirating and sailing under the 
black flag of destruction to honest trade are permitted to continue in 



16 

their outrageous practices for lack of a Federal law permitting the 
States to enforce their statutes. 

Many of the misbranded goods are, doubtless, as good as the articles 
Avhich they seek to supplant; in some cases, probably, they are superior. 
Would it not be better for the interests of all concerned to brand them 
true to name, and for the protection of the purchasers at home and 
abroad, as well as those manufacturers who prefer to do a legitimate 
business (by far the great majority), for the National Government to 
enact such remedial legislation as will prevent interstate or foreign 
traffic in misbranded food and drug products. The cost of executing 
such a law" need not be immoderate, and should be borne by the manu- 
facturers of food and drug products. A small registration fee, say $10, 
on each manufacturer (not each article) would fully cover all the cost, 
and the result would be of such a beneficial character as to soon receive 
the indorsement of all parties interested. One oflScial for each State, 
or, at the outside, two, to cooperate with the State oflicials, would be all 
that would be needed to prevent violations of the law, and reduce 
adulteration appreciably, as all reputable dealers would be only too glad 
to assist in preventing a competitor from underselling them by means 
of fraudulent brands. That any law can prevent crime is, of course, 
not to be expected, but in the case of a national food and drug adul- 
teration law the assistance rendered by honest manufacturers and 
dealers and the State officials would, after one or two convictions, be 
so convincing as to materially reduce the desire to sell fraudulent 
goods. Sf)eaking of the necessity for supervision of the food and 
drug products. Dr. E. 0. Kedzie, in an argument before the Michigan 
legislature, said: 

But the fact that there is such an official at work would do much to infuse a 
healthy tone of honesty among manufacturers and keep such poor stuff out of our 
State. The admonition, ''There's a chiel amang ye takin' notes, and faith he'll prent 
'em," will prove a healthy tonic for public morals. A fraud may make light of any 
threat of exposure, hut it fears nothing so much as the light. It requires strong 
Ijressure to gain its consent to be exposed in the public press. 

Without furtlier comment I submit a revised list of adulterants, 
various comments from State officials, extracts from official reports, 
newspapers, chemists, and other correspondents, and would direct 
special attention to the lax provisions for enforcing the statutes in 
most orthe States. These subjects have been collected under appro- 
priate headings. It would be impossible to reproduce the hundreds 
of letters or all the data that have been secured, or to publicly 
acknowledge the assistance rendered me by many gentlemen who have 
kindly and promptly furnished important information, but I desire to 
express to each my thanks for prompt and courteous assistance. In 
the following extracts, selected from many similar letters, will be found 
as fair an exhibit of the views upon the question of food and drug 
O-dulterations as could possibly be submitted. The preponderance of 



17 

opinion shows the feeling of the great mass of the people upon this 
subject. All kinds and classes, with Avonderfiil unanimity, join in 
testifying as to adulteration. This being the case, we are led to con- 
clude that adulteration is general. The letters presented show the 
character of these sophistications to be principally of a harmless (to 
health but not to the i^ocket) character. In many instances, however, 
poisons and injurious adulterants are used. The classification by 
States seems to be the best and easiest method of arrangement, and has, 
therefore, been selected. It will be seen that letters, extracts, reports, 
etc., have been received from many States showing that no part of the 
country is free from this nefarious i^ractice. It will be observed that 
nearly all the State officials and representative tradesmen who touch 
on the subject unite in urging the passage of a national food and drug 
law for the protection of legitimate industry and our interstate and 
foreign commerce, as well as the public health. 
3183— IS^o. 41 2 



OPINIONS OF STATE AND MUNICIPAL OFFICERS AND OTHERS 
REGARDING THE ADULTERATION OF FOOD AND DRUGS. 

ALABAMA. 

From Alphonse L. Stollenwerck, of the Newman & Stollen^Yerck 
Drug Company, Birmingham, Ala. : 

I have no data of adulteration of drugs and food products, for the reason that I 
never took the trouble to make memoranda. I have no doubt but that I could 
gather up quite a number of adulterated foods and drugs. We have no preventive 
laws in this State. We have an Alabama State pharmacy law, which pertains only 
to the licensing of pharmacists. In 1881 I organized a county pharmaceutical asso- 
ciation in Jefferson County, and the following year organized tlie Alabama State 
pharmaceutical association, of which I was tlie president for two years. As the presi- 
dent of this association, I framed the present pharmacy law. We have never been 
able to pass a law pertaining to adulteration of drugs, medicines, and foods. I think 
a law governing these articles if i^roperly enforced would be of great material good to 
the community at large. I think the manufacturers of patent and proprietary medi- 
cines and of food products are allowed entirely too much latitude, inasmuch as 
unscrupulous manufacturers put upon the market and advertise preparations not 
only devoid of medicinal properties but which are absolutely injurious to the con- 
sumer. 

From H. l!s^. Eosser, health officer, Birmingham, Jefferson County, 
Ala.:. 

In my opinion a national law requiring the proper labeling of drugs and groceries 
in packages as to quality and quantity is a "consummation devoutly to be wished," 
as many of the pharmuceutical preparations sent to tliis market are not of the 
quality specified on the labels, and many of our canned groceries are short in weight, 
of inferior quality, and often adulterated. Our city code has nothing in it in regard 
to adulterations, and we have no system of inspection in Alabama. 

From N. T. Lupton, State chemist, Agricultural and Mechanical Col- 
lege, Auburn, Ala. : 

Annotto, or a preparation similar, is used to a considerable extent for imparting a 
yellow color to butter. 

CALIFORNIA. 

From L. Tomasini, manager of Dairyman's Union of California, San 
Francisco, Cal.: 

The local laws against adulteration are ineifectual, as persons convicted of selling 
oleomargariu as pure butter were fined but $5, whereas the cost of arrest and con- 
viction to this institution was $200 in each case. We were instrumental in bringing 
before our last legislature a pure-butter bill which i)assed both houses, but for some 
unexplainable reason was pocketed by the governor. This will give you an idea of 
the extent of the adulterations of foods in this State, and you will readily perceive 
how helpless we are at present. Local federal authorities instead of taking an inter- 
est in these luatters seem to show considerable autagonism. 
18 



I 



19 
From J. IT. Hood, m. d., and A. J. Ilassler, of Haywards: 

Some time ago we noticed an advertisement in a newspaper wherein a certain 
store ottered for sale, among other drngs, a 3-onnce bottle of spirit of camplior for 
10 cents. This low price somewhat surprised us, and we therefore bought a bottle 
■with the view of determining where this store made its profit. The 3-ounce bottle 
turned out to be a 2-ounce short flint glass Elake, and its contents measured 15 
fluid drachms. But as even 2 ounces of good spirit of camphor in a flint glass bottle 
does not allow- much, if any, profit if sold at 10 cents, we decided to examine into 
the equality of this bargain of ours. We found the stufi" to be rather less than half 
the standard strength in camphor, and made with as weak an alcohol as possible. 
AVe made an analj'sis with the following result, as compared with the spirit of 
camphor of the United States Pharinacopoiia : 



i Bazar 
j sample. 


u 


s. p. 




! 43 




100 
70U 
200 


Alcoliol .. 


j 553 


Water 


1 404 


Total 


1 


' ], 000 




1,000 







This rather opened our eyes as to the manner in which these stores make their 
profits, for, as may be plainly seen, the cost of this preparation is very much less 
than that of a standard article. 

The result of this experiment led us to make further purchases of drugs, etc., from 
various grocery and other similar establishments in San Francisco and Alameda 
County. 

Asafceiida (jmn. — We bought 1 pound of asafcetida from a retail grocer, and paid 35 
cents for it, which was a great deal more than it was worth. The sample is about 
as poor a lot of asafoetida as we ever saw, and must have been refuse from some lot 
rejected by druggists, for no reputable druggist would sell such rubbish. 

Senna leaves. — With the exception of two lots, all the senna leaves we got were of 
fair average quality of East India senna, at prices ranging from 2 J cents to 5 cents 
an ounce. Two samples, sold and labeled as ''Alexandrian senna," were moldy 
and worm-eaten. 

Ghjcerin. — We examined six samples of glycerin and found only one that was of 
the required specific gravity. In one sample glucose was present to the extent of 
21 per cent; the others being only reduced with water, to the average amount of 10 
per cent. The price was in each case 10 cents for a 2-ounce bottle. 

Seidlitz powders. — Seidlitz powders, as purchased by us at grocery stores, were 
uniformly of short weight. The heaviest w'as 40 grains short, and the lightest 48 
grains of the seidlitz mixture. The tartaric acid averaged 30 grains, instead of 35 
grains. Two lots had Epsom salts and one lot Glauber salts added, to increase the 
active property. 

Ammonia water. — T"svo samples examined were both of the same strength, contain- 
ing 7.5 per cent of ammonia, and were sold at 15 cents a jiint. Strength thus being 
sacrificed for an apparently low price. 

The most of the other articles bought were of fair average quality, with the excep- 
tion of tincture of arnica, which in every case was about half the pharmacopoeial 
strength, as compared with a standard tincture prepared by ns. 

From Mr. Searley, of the California Pharmaceutical Association: 

English glucose is almost free of sulphuric acid. Some American glucose ia also 
good; but most of it is coutaminated. 



20 

COLORADO. 

From J. T. Flower, State Dairy Commissioner, Denver, Colo. : 

A national law covering the subject would, in my opinion, be beneficia], as it is a 
notorious fact that nearly every article in that line is more or less adulterated. 

From J. W. Goss, president State Dairy Association, Hygiene, Colo. : 

We have since July 1, 1893, a law whicli aims to compel the branding of oleo so it 
shall be sold for what it is. 

A national food and drug law would, in my opinion, be of great benefit to the 
people. 

From G. C. Miller, secretary of tbe Colorado State Dairy Associa- 
tion, Longmont, Colo. : 

At various sessions of the Colorado Dairy Association, the subject of a pure-food 
bill has been discussed, and a bill passed b}' Congress on the subject would meet 
the approval of our association, and also of all other good and law-abiding peonle. 

We also have a beekeepers' association. Straight comb honey will l)ring 15 cents, 
while tbe strained houcy sells for only 8 cents. The reason for this, is because a 
spurious article is sold as pure honey, and beekeepers are compelled to meet this 
fraud in the market. I trust the pure-food and drug bill will become law in the near 
future. 

From J. H. Wheat, Black Hawk, Colo. : 

I know butter to be fraudulent. Oleo is sold here and called creamery butter; 
maple sugar is also adulterated ; Califoruia honey is glucose ; buckwheat flour is coarse 
wheat flour (sliorts) mixed; some whisky is diluted alcohol colored with burnt 
sugar. In beer the brewers use laurel leaves, fish berries, and grains of Paradise. 

CONNECTICUT. 

Froto C. A. Rapelye, Secretary Board of Pliarmacy Commissioners, 
Hartford, Conn.: 

In regard to preventing adulteration of drugs, I am of the opinion that that is 
largely done by wholesale druggists and drug millers, if at all, and there is not much 
doubt that it is. I don't believe the retail trade has the facilities or generally the 
disposition to adulterate drugs, unless it be possibly in the case of laudanum. Laws 
can not prevent this thing "without money and power to execute them, and in this 
State we have neither placed in our hands. I am of the opinion that United States 
laws can not be passed that will govern this matter which can be made equitable. 
The Paddock bill aimed to accomplish something in this line, but it Avas manifestly 
unjust and raised the opposition it deserved. The matter must be reached through 
the manufacturers and large handlers, who lia\'e the opportunities, and not through 
the retailers, who do not have them. 

From Dr. George Anstin Bowen, master Connecticut State Grange, 
and president State Dairy Association, Woodstock, Conn.: 

I believe that almost every item of our commercial foods is adulterated or contains 
injurious ingredients, but I have no case now in mind concerning which I could go into 
court and testify under oath. This has been going on for so long a time that the 
public have come to believe that adulteration is necessary. It is not only our foods 
but the medicines and drugs which we depend upon for the restoration to health, 
when that health has been oftentimes impaired by these adulterated foods. It seems 
to me that, of all things tliat should be i)rotected from adulterations and frauds, 
these remedies to restore us to a normal condition should be the best protected, 



21 

Thirty-odd years ago, when I was a student of medicine, we were taught how to 
detect frauds regarding the various drugs then in use. It was as much a j^art of our 
education in materia, medica to know tlie frauds as the true articles, and it seems 
to me that the frauds liave been multiplying since then with a greater jiower than 
ever known in bacterial life. 

We have no preventive laws of inij^ortancein our State that I am acquainted with. 
We endeavored last winter to get through a pure-food bill. It went through the house 
all right but got lodged somewhere; in the senate. AVe did, however, get through a 
splendid oleo bill, based largely upon that in operation in Massachusetts,. and taking- 
some of the good points from Ohio. This is now in ojieration in our State and is 
having a good effect in obliging oleo to be sold unc(dored for what it is. 

I can conceive of no more beneficial law than a national food and drug law which 
would compel a i)roper branding of all articles of food or drugs that are sold in our 
markets. It seems to me that these fundamental conditions for the health of the 
peo])le can not be too closely guarded. Agriculture is said to be the foundation of 
natioual prosperity. We do not go to the bottom of it, for food and health are the 
foundations uj)on which our whole social structure rests. 

Our cities and t^.wns are all beginning to understand the importance of the milk 
question and are agitating for a proper inspection, but as yet we have nothing of 
the kind. Our daily milk snpplj' is adulterated in many ways, to the great detri- 
ment of infant liie, and needs a restraining intiuence from State authority. 

The following is from the Ooimecticut Agricultural Experiment 
Station Eeport for 1887, pages 105, 106: 

I. M PERI A I, GKAXUiM. 

CCLXXIX, as described by the proprietor, "Imperial Granum, the Great Medici- 
nal Food." This justly celebrated dietetic preparation is in composition princij^ally 
the gluten derived by chemical process from very superior growths of wheat. A 
solid extract. The invention of an eminent French chemist. It has acquired the 
reputation of being an incomparable aliment for the growth and protection of 
infants and children. The salvator for invalids and the aged, etc. 

Analysis. 





Imperial 
(Jranmu. 


Wheat Hour 
(average of 
25anal\>es). 


Water 


11.10 
.33 

10.13 
.10 

77.58 
.82 


12.56 
.56 

11.28 
.27 

74.13 
1.20 


Ash 


Albimiiiioids, ii)clu(liuii' <;luteu 


Nitiouen-f Vee extract 

Fat.. 


Cost per ])ound 


100.00 
$1.00 


100.00 
$0. 025-0. 05 





The Imperial Granum contains 77.24 per cent of wheat starch witli possibly some 
dextrin. The quantity of dextrin and dextrose is not more than 1.8 per cent. The 
only wide difference between the figures given above for granum and wheat flour is 
in the cost per pound. The granum can not be distinguished in chemical composi- 
tion and properties from wheat flour slightly browned, which cooked as a i)orridge 
has long been used and prized as a food for infants and invalids. 

It does not consist principally of the gluten of wheat, and is in no respect supe- 
rior as food to good wheat flour. 



22 

From W. I. Bartholomew, secretary and treasurer Connecticut Dairy- 
men's Association, Putnam, Conn. : 

The matter of the adulteration of foods and drugs has been several times discussed 
in the meetings of our association and the consensus of the opinions was that such 
adulterations prevailed to an alarming extent, and that preventive laws were much 
needed. A bill for this purpose was jiresented to our last legislature, but for some 
reason failed to secure passage: But we secured a law, about to take effect,- that 
oleomargarine, if offered for sale, shall not resemble yellow butter. It is stated tliat 
in consequence of this but 5 dealers have taken out licenses as against 69 last year, 
and over 200 in Rhode Island (which is in the same revenue district) this year. I 
think the brands of foods and drugs should honestly indicate their character. 

DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 

The Washington Star of April 8, 1893, contained the two following 
articles, which need no comment : 

INFANTS AND ADULTERATED MILK. 

As shown by Dr. John S. Billings, in his recenr lecture before the Sanitary League 
of the District, the death rate of colored infants under one year of age in this city 
is 696 out of every 1,000, and of white infants of the same age 273 per 1,000. Right 
behind this appalling statement comes the almost equally startling statement of the 
superintendent of dairy products. Chemist J. D. Hird, that ^^90 per cent of the milk 
coming into Washington is robbed of part of its cream, and 50 per cent of it is 
colored." 

May not this oe the explanation of the enormous death rate of infants duiing their 
first year, when milk alone forms their soie article of nourishment f It seems to me 
that this is a Yiial question, and demands pretty serious consideration from the 
District Commissioners, and if not from them then from the Sanitary League. 

The chancellor of the Maryland Board of Health reports that 3,673 more infants 
died during the year 1882 in the city of New York, when there were no milk inspect- 
ors, than during 1883, when the milk inspectors were at work confiscating adulter- 
ated milk. 

The city chemist of New Orleans, in his report to the board of health, thows that 
New Orleans has been paying $300,000 yearly for the water to adulterate the milk 
supply of that city. 

In addition to the evils of adulteration there are others connected with our milk 
supply which demand the most careful scrutiny. It has been conclusively proven 
that milk from a tuberculous cow may contain the bacilli of tuberculosis. From 
inspection, through the water added to the milk, or even from the water used in 
cleansing the milk cans, the germs of typhoid fever, diphtheria, scarlet fever, and 
cholera may be introduced into the human system. It has been demonstrated {see 
Brit.M. J. for January, 1893) that cows ma3" contract scarlet fever and induce the 
disease in children through the milk. 

M. Miguel, in Chi. J. of the Royal Microscopical Society, says he found in 1 cubic 
centimeter (about 16 drops) of milk, on its arrival at his laboratory only two hours 
after being taken from the cow, 9,000 microorganisms. In one hour more the num- 
ber had increased to 31,750, while in twenty-four hours after leaving the cow the 16 
drops contained over 5,000,000 germs. 

Prof. Bang, of Copenhagen, observes that bacilli of tuberculosis found in milk, 
cream, and butter were not destroyed by scalding at a temperature of 150° F. Even 
160*^ did not render milk free from disease-breeding germs. 



23 

These facts bein<^ undisputed, it would seoni that no greater service could be ren- 
dered to the. people of this city than for the proper authorities to thoroughly inves- 
tigate this whole question of our milk supply and not trust to the aiuilysis of an 
occasional pint hero and there. 

Harry O. Hall. 

April 1, 1893. 



DRUGS IX IMILK. 

Would it not ho well for the District authorities while investigating the quality 
of milk sold in the (dty to go a step further iind in(]uire as to use of antiseptics 
therein? 

Some years ago I was, as an attorney, thrown in contact with the milk business, 
as conducted by retailers, and was astounded to find the use of antiseptics as one of 
the concomitants. One large firm went so far as to advertise ''nonsouring milk," 
and smaller dealers were compelled, in self-defense, to furnish the same quality. To 
me, who had been reared on a farm, where it is known that milk begins to sour at 
once upon being taken from the cow, the heresy of '^nonsouring milk" was simply 
horrible. 

No matter what drug is used to prevent souring, the partaking of it in such small 
portions as with children can have but serious results through accumulation in the 
system, and I trust the health department will interpose their fiat. Watered milk 
is not injurious if pure water be used ; but drugs of any nature should be peremptorily 
tabooed. 

Lawyer. 

FLORIDA. 

From Prof. Norman J. Robinson, State cliemist. Agricnltural Depart- 
ment, State of Florida, Talleliassee, Fla. : 

Our State has only some general statutes against food and drug adulteration 
which, I think, are very imperfectly enforced, as there is no special officer whose busi- 
ness it is to investigate the matter or see to the execution of the law. 

GEORGIA. 

From John M. McOancUess, chemist, Atlanta, Ga. : 

In my opinion, a law providing for a close and stringent inspection of food and 
drugs is very necessary all over the country. I believe, however^ that to l>e of any 
vital force or efiect the law should bo national in its character so that adulterators in 
one State can not hide behind the laws or the lack of laws in another State. 

From R. J. Redding, director of the Georgia Experiment Station, 
Experiment, Ga. : 

I am of the opinion that a national food and drug law, if properly administered, 
would conduce to the health of every consumer. 

From E. M. Wheat, president of the Georgia Pliarmaceutical Asso- 
ciation : 

You will see from the Georgia pharmaceutical laws that this State has a very 
good law upon the subject of drug adulteration, and the officers are very vigilant 
in having those laws carried out; therefore, I hardly think that wo have any adul- 
teration in drugs. 

So far as I know, there is very little adulteration in ibod articles in this State. 
There is a great deal of so-called cider manufactured here that, of course, is adulter- 
ated, and I think very injurious. 



24 

ILLINOIS. 

From T>i\ Samuel Keuuedy^ ph. a., secretary board of health, Shelby- 
ville, 111. : 

As to your question regarding the adulteration of children's foods, dairy and 
pharmaceutical i)roducts, I hardly know how to answer, as it seems to me impossi- 
ble to draw the line distinguishing between what is and what is not an adulterant. 
I know of a large number of pharmaceutical products which are made up by our 
(so-called) pharmacists, but they are not properly prepared. It does not seem, 
however, that I would be justified in saying they are adultered. 

From A. W. HutcMus, secretary board of trade, Elgin, 111.: 

Lard is used to adulterate cheese. 

From L. R. Bryant, president Cider and Vinegar Association, Prince- 
ton, 111.: 

I do not think spurious cider is manufactured to such a noticeable extent as vin- 
egar is. There is no doubt, however, that in some seasons large quantities are sold 
in bulk. The so-called champagne cider sold by soda-water vendors does not contain 
any cider. 

The adulteration of vinegar is mainly in two ways: (1) By coloring spirit vinegar 
to imitate cider vinegar, and (2) by the use of injurious acids in weak vinegar to 
give it the appearance of greater strength. 

The imitating of cider vinegar by coloring spirit vinegar is very largely done, and 
it not only defrauds the consumer but works great injury to the genuine cider- 
Ainegar maker. I have no doubt that more than four-fifths of the vinegar sold in 
Illinois as cider, apple, or fruit vinegar is nothing but colored spirit vinegar. As to 
the extent of the use of injurious acids in vinegar, I am not prepared to say, but 
think they are used more or less by makers of very cheap vinegar. 

State laws regulating the manufacture and sale of vinegar have been passed in a 
number of States, and where properly framed and enforced have been effective, as 
in New York and Minnesota. 

In this State there is no vinegar law that is of any value. In 1891 an effort Avas 
made to pass a law, but it was not successful. I understood the same bill was intro- 
duced this winter, but I do not know what prosj)ect there is for its passage. 

The efforts to secure national legislation have taken two forms. First, the Pad- 
dock pure-food bill was generally advocated by the cider-makers as being in the 
line desired; second, the repeal or amendment of the vinegar law of 1879, which 
permits the distilling of a low grade of alcohol for vinegar without payment of any 
tax, and without Government supervision. 

What cider-vinegar makers specially complain of is that the spirit-vinegar men 
are allowed the exclusive privilege of distilling free alcohol, and then take the lib- 
erty of coloring and branding it and selling it on the superior reputation of cider 
vinegar. 

INDIANA. 

From George W. Benton, chemist of the health department of 
Indianapolis, Ind. : 

Our city has not as yet considered it important to carry on any systematic study 
of adulterants. Our board of health, however, feels the importance of it, and we 
hope in time to establish such investigations. 

As to laws relating to foods, etc., we are poor indeed. It is next to impossible to 
make a case in even a plain matter of adulteration of milk, as the law reciuires that 
we not only i:>rove the fixct of adulteration, but that the violator knew the article 



.25 

was adulterated, and that it was intentional to defraud, etc. We have won only 
three cases in a year on that basis, and lost many others on failure to prove the last 
two clauses. 

We have done njthing with cheese, hut I have detected the presence of refined 
lard in some quantity in several cases in the examination of butter. 

In the way of milk, at least one dairy company uses or has used a milk prepara- 
tion which, without ultimate analysis, seemed to he mainly dextrine, or something 
closely resembling it. Our crusade ou milk dealers in the autumn and Avinter of 
1892, although not resulting in many convictions, has resulted in giving us a season 
almost free from trouble of the kind. 

From Mortimer Levering, La Fayette, Incl. : 

There arc no State laws, no local laws, l)ut laws preventing the sale of l)ogus foods 
and drugs would be eminently beneficial to the credulous masses of Western far- 
mers. 

From William L. Molleriiig, pharmacist, Foi't Wayne, Ind.: 

No butter and cheese adulterants have come under my observation with the 
exception of butter colors, which are usually prepared from tumeric. 

From Dr. J. A. Muret, Madison, Ind.: 

I have found it necessnr}" in my practice to recommend a change of milkmen for 
selling adulterated milk to the people and sick babies. 

From Ernst Stalillmtli & Co., drnggists and pliarmacists, Columbus, 
Ind.: 

I have made no examination of butter recently. Some l)utter is sold which is a 
mixture of all grades churned with milk and colored with some in^oprietary butter 
color. 

Impure baking powders are sold here. 

Some time ago I niado an examination of cream of tartars and found more speci- 
mens of it adulterated than I did pure. I found no adulterated cream of tartar in 
drug stores, it being the usual kind found in groceries. The adulterants consisted 
of starch, chalk, alum, plaster of paris, and acid phosphate of lime. 

The most of the cayenne peppers sold here by druggists in the powder is mixed 
with corn meal, as is also the in-epared mustard sold by grocers. Adulterated salt- 
peter is also sold. 

IOWA. 

From R. W. Crawford, wholesale druggist, Fort Dodge, Iowa: 

I am and have been actively engaged in the drug business for twenty-five years, 
and use care in the drugs I dispense. I find but few adulterations. The worst lot 
I ever received was from Detroit, Mich., which I returned, the goods being j)owdered 
goods — black pe])per and others — loaded with terra alba. The capsicum of com- 
merce is said to be very impure, loaded with something, jind presumably before it 
is imported. 

KANSAS. 

From H. W. IMcKicney, M. D., health officer, Hutchinson, Kans. : 

Our State board of health reconmiended the enactment of more perfect laws gov- 
erning the practice of medicine, collectionof vital statistics, and other good things, 
but itseemedourlegislature was so busy infighting for party supremacy that nearly 
everything that Avas x)reeminently needed was ignored or forgotten. I have made 
some investigations in a general way, and have reason to believe that many, perhaps 
very many, articles of food are adulterated, notably in the spice line. You can pur- 
chase a pound of ground mustard, spice, cloves, or cinnamon^ or a pound of cream 



26 

of tartar from a greengrocer for one-half what a reliable druggist of our city will 
charge for the same article. I can say for the druggists of our citj^ that you can 
seldom find on their shelves what is termed commercial drugs (cheap drugs), although 
they sell black pepsin, as they say their trade demands it. It is my candid opinion 
that the enactment and rigid enforcement of a national food and drug law, such as 
you speak of, together with laws by the States governing their own trade, would be 
productive of much good. 

KENTUCKY. 

From Dr. Wiley Eogers, ph. d., commissioner of public charities, 
Louisville, Ky. : 

I have not made any special investigation relative to food and drug adulterations for 
several years. I was then sanitary inspector for the city. I am now a commissioner 
of public charities,, and we have pure food and drugs for our city hospital^ which I 
visit once a week, for there I examine the food that is given to the sick. I know 
that food adulteration is largely on the increase, and all that is necessary to prove 
it will be a thorough investigation. As to drugs, in which I am most interested, my 
opinion is that you can get pure drugs if you pay for them. I have been in the drug 
business since 1858. 

From E. Y. Jolinson, pharmacist, Louisville, Ky. : 

The only experience I have had in food and drug adulterations was in making an 
analysis of several samples of cream tartar, about two years ago. I tested samples 
from four or five groceries, and found in one sample as much as 75 per cent sulph. 
calcium. In the others I foiTud calc. sulph. as well as tartrate calcium, instead of 
the bi. tart. pot. My reason for conducting the tests was to ascertain why the gro- 
ceries could retail cream tartar for about what I paid wholesale. 

LOUISIANA. 

From Ericli Brand, 847 Magazine street, 'New Orleans, La.: 

The only adulterant I have ever seen used in milk was water, and lately I have 
seen some specimens of cream cheese adulterated with some amylaceous substance, 
most likely corn starch. 

From E. I^. Girling, Kew Orleans, La. : 

The board of health of this city, of which Dr. L. F. Salomon is secretary and 
Dr. A. L. Metz is chemist, has for several years been actively engaged in preventing 
the adulteration of milk by vigorously prosecuting the dealers. The only form of 
adulteration has, I believe, been the addition of water. A great improvement has 
been effected in the sanitation of the cow stables and in the quality of the water 
supplied to the animals. 

From Dr. R. J. Mainegra, 84 Washington avenue, New Orleans, La.: 

I am perfectly satisfied that a great deal of butter is consumed in this city which 

contains large proportions of beef tallow and cotton-seed oil, with coloring matter. 

MAINE. 

From W. H. Jordan, director agricultural experiment station, Maine 
State College, Orono, Me. : 

The only adulterant I personally know to be used in this State in dairy products 
is boric acid or the so-called preservaline, which is used by those who are sending 
cream out of the State, as a means of preventing fermentation. 



27 

MARYLAND. 

From Dr. James A. Stuart, secretary of the State Board of Health: 

The amount of iuformation the State Board of Health is able to give iu regard to 
the adulteration of food and drugs is very meager, owing to the very limited appro- 
priation made by the State legislature for this purpose. Since my appointment in 
April I have employed two inspectors, one for marine and the other for animal 
foods. The general results of such food insjiections as we have been able to prose- 
cute have been remarkably good for such limited opportunities. There are local 
laws, both State and municipal, but too vague and without support of inspectors. 

A national food and drug law would be of great use and benelit to this as well as 
all other communities in this country. 

From Dr. Toury in the Baltimore Sun : 

If you really want a fruit jelly which is made wholly and entirely from raspber- 
ries, strawberries, or currants do not expect to Hud it commercially, but procure the 
fruit and make it for yourself. The best commercial jelly imitations are nuide 
from good apples to which is added glucose, sugar to sweeten, tartaric acid to give 
tartness, and the composition is transformed into fruit jelly by the addition of the 
sirups after which it is named. 

A common article is made from the cores and parings of apples and the addition 
of glucose, tartaric acid, aniline colors, and a little salicylic acid, and the compound 
is converted into a fruit jelly with the addition of a little of the fruit sirup to help 
the illusion. The cost of this article hy the bucket will not be over 4 or 5 cents a 
pound, while the l>etter quality will cost 12 to 15 cents. In this line of goods, when 
you purchase in the market or at the grocery store an article to which the maker is 
ashamed to attach his name, you may expect to iind, as I did iu an article purchased 
iu one of our markets, very much glucose, no sugar, aniline enough to give color, 
and no raspberry sirup. The article cost 15 cents a pound and had on the package 
a printed label with the words, "Raspberry jelly." Only that and nothing more; 
but the vendor assured me that the article was really a pure raspberry jelly, and as 
I find it not always advisable to appear to know too much I did not express my 
doubt of the manifestly false assertion. Personally, I do not object to pure apple 
butter with a little pure glucose and some raspberry sirup, sugar, and tartaric acid. 
It would be easier and better to adopt a name which would give a more correct idea 
of the compound, hut I think I would draw the line, between good and suspicious 
articles of this class, at apple skins and apple cores, second or third grade glucose, 
and aniline colors. 

From Dr. E. T. Duke, secretary of board of health, Cumberland, Md. : 

There are some adulterations iu certain essences, laudanums, paregoric, etc., sold 
iu the country stores. These goods are purchased in large cities. The adulterants 
are not injurious to health, I think. 

. From Columbus Y. Emich, druggist, Baltimore, Md. : 

I am unable to give you any reliable statement as to adulterations of food, drugs, 
etc. That it prevails to a very great extent is, I think, clearly the case, and the evi- 
dence of that to my mind is the advertised rates at which many goods are offered and 
sold. As men do not work for work's sake and glory, it is reasonable to supi)ose that 
goods offered far below rates at which goods can be bought at firsthand, are prepared 
for the special rates at which they are offered. This, however, is not the information 
you wish, but the general condition is all that I am aware of so far as direct evidence 
will go. 

Dr. Chancellor, secretary of the INFaryland State Board of Health, in 
an address before the convention of the National Food and Dairy Com- 



28 

missioners of 1892, held in WasMngtoii, 1). C, March 30 and 31, 1892, 
said • 

Now, sir^ in accordance with a suggestion or resolution — I do not remember 
whicli — that was introduced here yesterday that each nicniber of this association 
shoukl, as far as possible, see a member or members of the delegation from his 
State, and urge the passage of this bill, I happened yesterday afternoon to meet 
with a prominent member of the Maryland delegation on my Avay home, and I took 
occasion to bring this matter to his attention, and he said he was entirely in accord 
with the object of the bill, but he doubted very much the constitutionality of it, 
and his doubts were based upon its possible interference with State's rights. 1 told 
him thirty years or more ago I thought as he did, but the logic of events had con- 
vinced me that the proper thing to do now was to keep the States right, and above 
all things to keep these people right who were poisoning our people and our chil- 
dren, and who Avill continue to poison our children and our children's children 
unless some action is taken by the National Government. 

I am very v/ell satisfied, sir, notwithstanding the success which Massachusetts 
and New Jersey have had in this matter, that all States that will follow the course 
which they have pursued will have great difficulty indeed in getting to the point 
they have reached, and if we can reach that point by one single bound I think it 
would be much better, and the only way to do it is through national laws. 

MASSACHUSETTS. 

Although this State has probably the best executed laws upon adul- 
teration, owing to the liberal api^ropriations made and the efficient 
direction given the service, while some reduction has been made Id 
sophisticated selling, still the work goes on. The report of the board 
of health for February, 1893, shows that out of 275 samples analyzed 
107 varied from the legal standard, the per ceut of adulteration being 
38.9 of the goods examined. 

The milk examined showed 6(j per cent adulterated. 

Samples of hcney bearing the following label were found to contain 40 per cent 
of glucose: On one side ''Pure Honey," on the opposite side " Extracted Honey, 
Geo. D. Powell, 81 Third street, Brooklyn, N. Y." 

The samples of drugs found to be adulterated were red wine and washed sulphur. 

A sample of baking powder examined by Dr. Harrington, chemist of 
the Massachusetts Board of Health, "was chiefly coarse hominy." 

From the Massachusetts Dairy Commission : 

In relation to laws relating to milk, we have a high standard, viz, 13 per cent 
solids, with very severe penalties for adulteration. For the purpose of euforcing 
that law, any milk having less than 13 per cent solids is deemed to be adulterated. 

Our State is well provided with laws regulating the sale of imitation butter, with 
the intent that the sale shall he confined to an honest sale of the goods, if such a 
thing is possible, though as a matter of fact there is something peculiar about oloo- 
margarin, in so far as it seems to benumb the moral sensibilities of those who have 
the handling of it, and although there is uiKjuestiouably an oleo whicli may, under 
some circumstances, be of benefit to the puldic, the sale of the ordinary commercial 
article IS very closely and intimately coiwiected VN'ith fraud and deceit. 

Among the various restrictive measures on this sul)ject, the most important is a 
law which absolutely pr()hi])its the sale of any imitation of yellow butter. This law 
has been l)efore our State sux)reme court once and been pronounced constitutional. 



29 

A writ of error lias taken this decision to tlie United States Supremo Court, Avlierc it 
is now pending. ^Meanwhile another case lias gone to the State supreme court, rais- 
ing additional points; so that this law is now practically of no effect and will not 
be until the supreme court sustains it. The laws relatiA'c to marks on tubs, marks 
on wrappers, giving notice by restaurant keepers, etc., are fairly well enforced and 
have done much to prevent the irregular sales of olcomargarin. In fact, the nu)st 
of it that is sold in this State at present is sold by agents for the large wholesalers, 
who sell only by the tub and then only on orders, so that most of the goods so s(dd 
are purchased knowingly by the consumer, and there is no element of deceit in the 
transaction so far as I am at present advised. 

So far as dairy products are concerned, I do not sec Avhat eifect a national law could 
have in promoting the efficiency of our laws, but there would be great gain if the 
laws of the different States could be similar. In the matter of olcomargarin, which, 
in a State like Massachusetts, is received entirely from other States, there being no 
manufactory here, national legislation might possibly be of some assistance. 

From Ebeii M. Holbrook, refiner of cbaiupagiie cider for bottling, 
Soutli Slierboni, Alass. : 

By the unanimous vote of the Fruit-Growers', Cider and Cider-Vinegar JVIakers' 
Association of Massachusetts, a request was made of the Senators and Kepresenta- 
tives in Congress from this State to render such assistance as they could towards the 
enactment of the Paddock pure-food bill at the time it was before Congress. 

MICIIiaAN. 

From J. S. Foster, manager Genesee Fruit Oomi^aiiy, Lansing Mills, 
Lansing, Micli. : 

We are heartily in favor of a national food and drug law that will compel all 
manufacturers to brand their products by their true names. While we have no evi- 
dence that would be Avorth anything to you, we do know that there is scarcely an 
article of food offered by the grocers throughout the country that is not adulterated. 

Cider is adulterated to a less degree, perhaps, than almost any other drink or food 
product you might mention. It consists mostly in compositions of water and sugar 
with apple extract colored to look like cider. It is not very injurious but is a fraud 
and injures the honest manufacturer. Genuine cider is sometimes charged to such 
a degree with salicylic acid to hold it sweet, as to make it, in our opinion, injurious 
to health. As to vinegar, we used to find sulphuric acid cxuite frequently, but the 
chief adulteration of vinegar at present is water. Some manufacturers get it down 
so fine as to get it about three times as much water as vinegar. We have just 
tested a sample of vinegar sold for 40 grains strength and for pure apple-cider Aine- 
gar that showed but 19 grains acidity and not :i particle of cider about it. Grocers 
have no means of testing it except by taste and they are defrauded in about 90 i)er 
cent of the A^negar they buy. Corn vinegar is colored with burnt sugar and sold in 
about 90 per cent of cases for cider vinegar. 

We would be very much pleased to see a laAv passed that Avould shut out such 
shams. It Avould be a good thing for the consumer and for the dealer and manufac- 
turer of honest goods. 

MINNESOTA. 

From is^oyes Bros. & Cutler, St. Paul, Minn.: 

We do not think children's prepared foods are adulterated. We do not think 
pharmaceutical jn-eparations of respectable houses are adulterated. Essential oils 
are adulterated. Substitutes are common. Medicinal poA\'ders are not ahvays the 
best. Just where adulteration begins and ends, it is hard to say. A ground mus- 
tard not perfectly pure is adulterated but is as good for many purposes and for some 
purposes better than the full strength mustard. 



30 

From Berndt Anderson^ dairy and food coiniiiissioner, St. Paul, 
Minn. : 

The l)utter made in lliis (State is a pure article without adulteration of any kind. 
The onl}^ fraud we have to contend with is oleoniargarin, and that is not made in 
this State, but shipj^ed in from Chicago. We are in holies that the time will come 
when we can eliminate that ^ile compound. The State Dairy and Food Department 
of this State has the enforcement of all laws of this character. 

MISSOURI. 

From Theodore Ilg, cliemist, St. Louis, Mo. : 

As to results and effect of our preventive laws, so far as dairy products are con- 
cerned, in which the law has heen very strictly enforced^ the object of the law has 
been reached very successfully,, and with less trouble than anticipated. In conse- 
quence we now have in St. Louis a very satisfactory grade of dairy products. We 
do have local laws here concerning all sorts of adulterations. The dairy-product 
law, however, is the only one enforced and for which an office has been created. 

The benefits of a national food and drug law are numerous and obvious, and in 
my opinion such laws are a necessity and a protection the public should have. It 
not only puts a premium on honesty, but also protects the people's health and life. 
Such laws would also be very instructive to the ignorant class, who before never 
thought of the quality of their food stuffs and would soon teach them how to select 
wholesome food. 

From Charles C. Bell, Cider and Cider- Vinegar Makers' Association, 
Boonville, Mo. : 

It is my opinion that the adulteration of food is much greater than most people 
have any idea. This is especially true of vinegar. 

By ret][uest of the above association, I drafted a bill in 1891 and sent it to the 
Missouri legislature, which was passed, but it is not enforced to any extent, like a 
good many other laws we have on our statute books. The chief provision in said 
law is to compel the manufacturer to brand his output, true to name; in other 
words to^stop the branding of spurious A'inegar as cider, or apple vinegar. 

In my opinion national legislation on this subject is very necessary, but I fear 
that our law-makers in Congress assembled will not think it worth while to con- 
sider the subject. They have too much politics on hand to consider any pure-food 
measure. 

From Cai)t. Henry (t. Sharp, commissary U. S. Army, St. Louis, Mo. 

The information I have gathered of food adulteration has been the result of the 
work of others, as I have not had time to make any extended investigation. I am 
deeply interested in the subject, and know of no other which is more important. 

While some of the State laws are quite comprehensive, the fact is, none are the 
same or are enforced with the same honesty of purjiose in the different States. 
Therefore we should have a national law on the subject, and this law should be 
most sweeping. It should be an offense for a manufacturer of food products to 
have on his premises any article used as an adulterant. The o])ponents of such a 
measure have declared such a law unconstitutional, but they are not yet members 
of the Supreme Court, the authority from which we learn of the validity of the laws 
of Congress. Neither the Executive nor the Supreme Court announce the action 
they will take on a bill submitted for approval, or an act of Congress, the constitu- 
tionality of which has been questioned, before it reaches them. 

From Albert J. Funch, druggist, Eighth and Soulard streets, St. 
Louis, Mo. : 

Adulterations of food and drugs are carried on now on au enormous scale. It is 
no longer a secret. For example, take vanilla bean, opium, and many other impor- 



31 

tant diu<;s. I liave bought vanilla from differeut drug houses aud have often been 
obliged to return the same, owing to its inferior (juality. Opium of a pure quality 
is especially hard to get. The i)roducers often exhaust the pure gum with alcohol, 
making a strong tincture, -which is sold on the market, and then triturate the bulk of 
the opium with poppy l(iaves and jiut it on the market as lirst-class gum opium, 
■which the jobbers sell as such, yet purchased by them as second-class. Vanilla is 
treated in the same way. 

As individual dealers we can not make the necessary in^ estigatious, owing to the 
expense. 

Food adulterations are plentiful; impure cheese, butter, preserves, baking pow- 
ders, ice cream, vinegar, and many other articles are passed upon the consumer as 
pure. I have investigated some cheese from my grocer and found it so ingeniously 
adulterated as to deceive the ordinary buyer. 

From Otto A. Hartwig, m. d., St. Louis, Mo. : 

All powdered drugs are more or less adulterated with inert substances, such as 
flaxseed meal, fine sawdust, etc., unless obtained from some reliable dealer, regard- 
less of cost. Concerning children's food I am of the opinion that the patent and 
proprietary articles sold as such are mostly vile compositions of starch, sugar, malt, 
and gums, and at best they are old and stale when procured by the customer. Fre- 
quently they are full of vermin, as any druggist can tell, aud often by his own 
experience, when the customer returns them. I have seen some of them actually 
alive with insects and worms when the stuff had been freshly procured from the 
wholesale house. 

From Mr. John Whittaker, a large packer in St. Louis, Mo. : 

I am credibly informed that some, if not a great deal, of the so-called '' refined" 
lard of commerce does not contain a particle of lard and is made entirely from cot- 
ton-seed oil and acid-bleached or washed tallow. It is when cool almost odorless, 
but I presume Avhen put in the pan and warmed it would more nearly indicate its 
character. If these statements to me are true, I think it is a shame that they should 
use the word ''lard" at all. 

From Hon. W. S. Cowherd, mayor, Kansas City, Mo.: 

As to butter adulterants, I have discovered nothing which has not been already 
published in the bulletin of the Division of Chemistry of the Department of Agri- 
culture. These adulterations consist chiefly of coloring matters (such as turmeric) 
and foreigm fats. The law taxing oleomargarin, butterin, etc., has resulted in 
causing all large manufacturers to label their products and has largely diminished 
the sale of artificial butter under the-name of the genuine article. 

A good deal of the "■ creamery" butter sold here, however, is what is known as 
"renovated," i. e., made from old, inferior, and rancid products w^hich arc washed 
to rid them of the free butyric acid and colored uniformly Avith turmeric, and treated 
with boric acid and like antizymotic chemicals, and put on the market as creamery 
butter. 

The most common form of adulteration of milk xiracticed here, as elsewhere, is the 
removal of cream or the addition of water, or both. Formerly, I have found cane 
sugar (added to increase the sj)ecific gravity) and sodium bicarbonate (to jiroduce 
froth and neutralize acidity), together with annotto, as coloring matter. I have also 
found in samjiles starch and boric acid, and in a few cases salicylic acid. These 
latter forms of adulterations are becoming rare in this city, owing to the very heavy 
penalty. 

The infants' foods sold here are all proprietary articles, sold in closed packages, 
and, however their physiological effects may differ from those claimed for them, they 
could not under our city laws bo deemed adulterated. 

A9 to pharmaceutical preparations, although hardly in the line of my work, a 



32 

number of tliesc have been examined, chiefly for use of the committee on adultera- 
tion of the Missouri State Pharmaceutical Association. 

The result of these will be found in the annual report of that society for 1892. 

Any further information I am able to give will be gladly furnished you at any 
time, especially for use of the Division of Chemistry in the Department of Agricul- 
ture, to which the chemists all over the country are so much indebted for informa- 
tion on recent methods of adulteration and the most approved means of detecting 
the same. 

From William H. Avis, president Clarksville Cider and Vinegar 
Company, St. Lonis, Mo. : 

Our knowledge of the adulteration of food in this community is confined to vine- 
gar. In 1891 a law was passed by the legislature of Missouri, and, while penalties 
Avere attached, there was no enforcement clause. The law is therefore a dead letter 
for want of enforcement. This law was compiled in the interest of the horticultural 
society of Missouri, and while the apple-vinegar men were consulted, the fear that 
even this law could not be passed prevented the framers from making it more 
operative. It was a groundless fear, and if the law had been perfected it doubtless 
would have passed both branches of our legislature. 

There are so few engaged in the manufacture of pure apple vinegar in this State 
that any further legislation v/ould become a burden in a pecuniary sense upon 
them, and we have concluded to wait in hopes that Congress will come to our relief 
by a passage of a law similar to the Paddock pure food-bill. 

The sentiment of the community on this score is largely in favor of the Govern- 
ment taking the matter in hand. It is almost impossible to pass State or municipal 
laws of this nature, unless protected by a Government law that would control inter- 
state communication. Should a Government law be enacted we could influence 
legislation to correspond, and without doubt could have the same passed by our 
legislature. 

MONTANA. 

From Dr. J. W. Guun, health office, Butte, Mont. : 

The oqily methods of adulteration with which I am acquainted are selling oleo- 
margarin for butter and attempts to sell diluted milk at times. There are no food 
or drug inspectors in this State. 

NEBRASKA. 

From A. Lamoureux, Enshville, IS^ebr. : 

Milk is adulterated in Rushville by the addition of certain drugs and chemicals 
which increase the quantity of milk 100 per cent. 

NEW HAMPSHIRE. 

From Herbert 8. Clough, sanitary inspector, board of health, Man- 
chester, N. H. 

A large amount of butterin is being sold here through agents who are not pun- 
ishable under our statutes. It is shipped from Lowell, Mass., here and delivered 
c. o. d. by a common carrier. 

A large part of the milk supply of the city is adulterated. Water is the principal 
adulterant. Salt and sugar are used to cover the taste and a preparation of annotto 
to color butterin. Old milk men tell me that 6 quarts of milk are quite often 
extended into 8, 



33 
From N. 0. Twombly, M. D., Center Strafford, N. H. 

Almost all the whisky and some drugs are adulterated. For instance, I purchased 
1 gallon of alcohol for 95 per cent and it was only 55 per cent on testing when I 
got home. 

Some of our flour is adulterated more or less, with a certain kind of earth that 
comes from the South.* 

NEW .JERSEY. 

From Prof. August Drescher, chemist of the State Board of Health, 
Newark, N. J. : 

I have examined five samples of butter since last summer, three of which were 
genuine, two of cotton-oil composition. 

The general condition of milk in our city for the past year has been, in my experi- 
ence, good, most of the samples examined by me showing over 12.5 per cent total 
solids, many of them even over 13 per cent. This excludes a number of samples 
which were undoubtedly adulterated, i. e., either watered or skimmed, or both. 

It has occurred twice in my recent experience that the surfaces of cheese packed 
in tin foil contained notable quantities of lead, which I consider dangerous, these 
parts of the cheeses being generally eaten, as well as the inner portions, into which 
the invasion of the lead has not extended. Both these samples were Limburger 
cheese. Out of a number of Limburger cheese samples I also discovered one which 
gave the '^ murexide reaction," indicative of the employment of urine for ''ripening" 
the cheese. I had heard of this dirty practice, but not believing the story made 
tests of some samples to get evidence or prove the popular belief to be unfounded. 

Children's nursing nipples and fittings, tubings, etc., of India rubber of our mar- 
ket are mostly weighted with minerals. Thus I have found the white India rubber 
articles loaded Avith zinc oxide, which forms poisonous salts not intended for 
infants' stomachs. 

Dried apples have come to my attention which contain zinc; one sample also 
copper. 

Laudanum, esj)ecially that sold by grocers (unlawfully, only registered pharma- 
cists in our State having the privilege to sell such poisonous drugs), of our market 
is, in most cases, deficient in morphine strength. I have also found the essence of 
peppermint, essence of ginger, vanilla, Hoffman's anodyne, especially the articles 
put up for grocers' use, to be of very inferior quality. One sample of mustard 
powder, sold at 15 cents per pound, proved to be a mixture containing chromate of 
lead, chalk (or whiting), Spanish pepper, and Indian meal, together with some real 
mustard. 

Seidlitz powders of deficient weight are. in spite of all legislation, openly sold at 
the present day. 

NEW YORK. 

From A. M. Hodge, druggist, Ganajoharie, N. Y. : 

A little coloring matter prepared from annotto is used somewhat early in the 
season to give butter a golden tinge, but no other adulterations are j)racticed that 
I know of. 

The New York City Health Report for 1891, p. 183, states: 

The total number of slaughtered animals in New York City for 1891 was 3,107,939, 
which weighed 533,660,595 pounds. This immense amount of food consisted only of 
cattle, hogs, sheep and lambs and calves. In addition the amount of live and dressed 
poultry, dressed beef, sheep, hogs, and calves amounted to 483,624,900 pounds. Over 
300,000 pounds more of meat were seized by the inspectors in 1891 than in 1890, 
including 60,000 pounds more of "bob" veal. 



"* This is doubtless a mistake. — H. W. AV. 
3183-^No. 41 3 



From Jesse Owen, 410 West Church street, Elmira, N. Y.: 

I have no -information that would be new to you, but am sure that some very 
stringent laws should be made and then enforced against the adulteration of food. 
I have been quite conversant with the dairy commissioner of New York State. The 
old commissioner was an active, honest man and did much to keep out oleo. 

A man at the icing station in Waverly, N. Y., told my sou that they were 
icing some ten cars a day loaded with Elgin butter made in Chicago and destined 
for New Y'ork City. This butter was packed in tierces, I presume it was oleo. 

From Schoellkopf, Hartford & Maclagan, New York: 

With regard to the adulteration of food and drugs we beg to say that we only 
handle imported drugs, and of course the appraisers are here to reject inferior quality, 
but as a matter of fact they often pass very inferior drugs. We have known of very 
inferior jalap being allowed through the custom-house. But they go to the other 
extreme with regard to ipecac, and refuse to admit the root that comes from Car- 
thagena, although, as far as we know, it is fully equal to the Brazilian root. 

From Fairchild Bros. & Foster, 'New York : 

Concerning the adulterations of children's foods we would say that we have never 
heard of such a thing. There are so-called " infants' foods " of very great variety 
of composition. Some of these are practically baked flour; others malted flour or 
Liebig's foods ; others are simply condensed milk or milk condensed with farinaceous 
substances or with malted flour ; others of dried milk, or milk dried with farinaceous 
and saccharine matter. We do not see how any of these foods can be considered in 
any way adulterated foods. If there was a certain definite standard of composition 
for each variety of infant food then there would be some point of view from which 
the quality of an infant food could be considered. For instance, if a Liebig food 
contained glucose not due to the malting of flour it would be considered adulterated, 
but there is no such adulterated food in existence. If a food stated to be Liebig's 
food contained anything more than a trace of starch it must be considered to be 
badly made, but scarcely to be adulterated. It would simply be an imperfect Lie- 
big food. Infants' foods are in the main just what they are represented to be, in so 
far ag^ their composition is concerned, and every variety of them is employed for the 
food of infants. There is no such thing as an adulterated infant food to our knowl- 
edge. 

As to the adulterations of pharmaceutical preparations we can not give you any 
data. AVe do not believe that there are any such which would properly be consid- 
ered adulterated. We believe that in general they conform closely to the statements 
made concerning their composition and quality; that they will difi'er mainly owing 
to the skill and knowledge with w^hich they are prepare*!, and will not be found to 
be adulterated in any sense in which that term can be used. Of the dairy products 
we have no special knowledge. 

From W. T. Pettengill, manager Genesee Fruit Company, 501 West 
street, Holley, K. Y. : 

We have a State law governing tiie sale of vinegar in the State, which lias mate- 
rially improved the quality of all vinegar, but for want of a general law we are 
handicapped by the '^original package" from other States. 

The State dairy commissioner has the enforcement of the vinegar law in this 
State, which he does through subordinates. 

I believe a general law governing the branding of all articles of food and drugs 
would be beneficial in protecting honest manufacturing, and in telling to the buyer 
what he is getting, and driving from the nuirket articles which would never be used 
if the consumer knew what they contained. 



35 

NORTH CAROLINA. 

From H. B. Battle, director North Carolina AgTicultural Experiment 
Station, Ealeigb, N. 0. : 

We have no l«iws in this State in reference to the adulteration of food and drugs. 
A proper national law wisely enforced would unquestionably benefit the people of 
the United States. 

NORTH DAKOTA. 

From W. S. Parker, secretary of the North Dakota State Board of 
Pliarmacy, Lisbon, N. Dak. : 

Wo have a food and drug adulteration law in this State, and I do not think that 
it is violated to any great extent. I think that a national food and drug law, com- 
pelling the proper branding of all articles of food and drugs shipped from one State 
to another, would do much more to stop adulterations thau could be accomplished in 
any other way. 

OHIO. 

From Charles T. P. Fennel, chairman of the American Pharmaceuti- 
cal Association, Cincinnati, Ohio : 

Regarding the laws I am satisfied that they do not accomplish the object desired, 
viz, the x^rotection of the public iu the purchase of all products necessary for sub- 
sistence. Legislators do not usually take into consideration social and economic 
conditions. They fail to discriminate between adulteration in its various differen- 
tiations, or to give the proper support for the enforcement of the law, and they offer 
in the majority of cases, by ambiguous* phraseology, opportunities for violations. 
In fact State laws are absolutely valueless. Nothing can be accomplished until the 
U. S. Government takes charge of the matter. The framing of a law governing food 
products should not be a very difficult task. For drugs the United States pharma- 
copoeia should be made the legal authority, with such modifications of maximum 
and minimum strength to allow for variations. 

Frank Kienzle, esq., Columbus, Ohio, sends the two following 
extracts, but fails to give the name of the paper from which they were 
clipped, but gives their date as May 2. 

UNWHOLESOME ARTICLES. 

State Dairy and Food Commissioner McXeal to-day received the reports of analysis 
made by John H. Westerhoif and Louis Schmidt, iucludiug a number of articles of 
food which had been submitted to them by the deputy commissioners. Among these 
Avere 3 samples of maple sirup, one of which, produced by Williams Bros,, 
Detroit, and sold in Cincinnati, is reported to have contained 60 percent of glucose; 
another produced by A. E. Idett, Cincinnati, is marked as being a mixture of 
molasses and glucose, and the third, from the Woodstock Maple Sirup Company, St. 
Louis, is put down as containing 30 to 35 per cent of glucose. 

The most glaring of the adulterations in the list is a sample of coffee, which the 
chemist says, ''was found to consist of pure l)arley, malted, roasted, and ground. 
Contains no cofl^ee whatever." 

Asample of sweet oil, sold by Eckler & Co., Pleasant Ridge, Ohio, the producer 
being unknown, is reported to be adulterated with 20 per cent of cotton-seed oil, 



36 

ANALYSIS OF FOOD ARTICLES. 

Food and Dairy Commissioner McNeal has received from the chemists a number 
of analyses made of articles of food submitted l)y his department. Several samples 
of maple sirup were found to be pure, while a couple of samples of lard were slightly 
adulterated with stearin. A sample of olive oil, labeled ''Huile d'olive vierge,'*' 
secured from a dealer in Warren, Trumbull County, and handled by a wholesaler in 
Cleveland, was found to be composed entirely of cotton-seed oil. A glass of currant 
jelly, made by McMehen, in Wheeling, W. Va., is composed chiefly of apple pulp. 
Another sample of Chandler's vinegar, sold for malt vinegar, is found to be a dis- 
tilled article and colored with caramel. 

Dr. W. S. West, Kew Matamoras, Ohio, sends the following': 

IMPURE FOOD. 

The analyses of a number of food samples by the State dairy and food commis- 
sioner, secured from Cincinnati dealers, were made public to-day. Louis Schmidt 
is the chemist. They are as follows: Maple sirup, from T. J. Wenstrath, 60 per 
cent glucose; olive oil, A. B. Barnes & Co., pure; maple sirup, Portwood, mixture 
of molasses and glucose; butter, H. Sicking, artificially colored; maple sirup, Henry 
Schultz, 30 percent glucose; apple vinegar, Ehler & Morris, apple and white- wine 
vinegar and water; white-wine vinegar, Ehler & Morris, pure; maple sirup, D. 
Telau, pure; sweet oil, W. H. Eckler & Co., 20 per cent cotton-seed oil; apple vine- 
gar, J. J. Jackson, not pure. 

From A. Hanenstein, druggist, Bluifton, Ohio: 

Drugs from wholesale houses are often adulterated, especially ground goods. I 
hope something can be done to remedy the evil. I have some now ready to return 
to them. 

From Tim Leroux, president of the Ohio State Cider and Vinegar 
Makers' Association, Toledo, Ohio : 

The'bider and vinegar makers and makers of pure fruit products demand a national 
food law by all means, as we think it is the only law that would prevent the adultera- 
tion of food. We have a food law in Ohio, and we have a food commissioner in our 
State by the name of Dr. F. H. McNeal, with ofiSce in Ohio State Building, Colum- 
bus, Ohio. We believe the Ohio State food commissioner is doing his very best to 
keep adulterated food out of the State, but he can not do it successfully. I am per- 
sonally engaged in the cider-vinegar business, and traveling on the road I find col- 
ored spirit vinegar sold in almost every town. This vinegar is made and sold by 
parties living in other States. In some cases it is branded " pure cider vinegar," but 
does not contain a particle of cider, hence you can clearly see the necessity of a 
national food and drug law compelling the branding of all articles of food and drugs, 
by whom manufactured, and residence of the manufacturer, to enable the Depart- 
ment to find the guilty party. 

A special dispatch from Columbus, Ohio, to the Cleveland Leader 
and Herald of February 22, 1890, is as follows : 

ADULTERATED BEER. 

Prof. Herman A. Weber, State chemist, at the instance of F. A. Derthick, State 
food and dairy commissioner, has made a chemical analysis of '* Kaiser'' beer, man- 
ufactured at Bremen, Germany, and imported to this country, where it is sold to 
those who are able to purchase a costly stimulant or tonic. It is taken for dyspep- 
sia, etc. Prof. Weber discovered that this beer is highly charged with salicylic acid. 






37 

originally extracted froinoilof wintcigreen, but now made from coal tar. The acid 
is an antiseptic. It is frequently used to preserve food and naturally preserves the 
food in the stomach. Prof. Weber also analyzed Leopold Hoff's Malt Extract, a 
tonic manufactured in Hamburg-, Germany. It also ccmtained large quantities of 
salicylic acid. * ^ * Dr. Aslimun, of Cleveland, a member of the State Board of 
Health, says that salicylic acid is given sometimes for a few days, but it must be 
discontinued, and as invalids and their physicians should know what is being admin- 
istered as a tonic. Commissioner Derthick desires to inform them and the pub- 
lic. "< * * The developments made by these investigations arc to be laid before 
the legislature in support of the adulterated food bill, Avhich has passed one brancli. 

From Dr. B. F. McNeal, Ohio dairy aud food commission, OoliimbuSj 
Ohio: 

A summary of the analyses of samples taken by the Ohio dairy and food commis- 
sion during the year ending May, 1893, shows about 64 per cent of the samjiles ana_ 
lyzed to have been adulterated. The samples were taken from goods found on sale 
in the open market by men who were not experts in judging the quality of the goods 
they inspected. The character of the adulterants has been mainly of the class 
termed noninjurious. Though many substances are used as adulterants which may 
not be injurious to the healthy stomach, yet wlicn given to the people promiscu- 
ously, both healthy and unhealthy, many of them must be injurious in some cases. 

The result of the pure-food legislation in the State of Ohio has been effective in 
reducing and preventing adulteration of foods and drugs in proportion to the active 
measures taken by our dairy and food commission to execute the law. The laws on 
our statute books have been aud always will be a dead letter unless an active, ener- 
getic policy is maintained upon the part of those Avho are officially charged with 
their execution. 

OKEGON. 

In a recent paper on the subject of milk and butter, the Hon. W, W. 
Baker, food commissioner for Oregon, says: 

To me this part of my subject is more interesting, because, even with the limited 
amount of money at my command, I have been enabled to enforce the law in a profit- 
able degree at least. / 

A consideral)le amount of imitation butter has been sold in this market during 
the present winter by wholesalers, who do so by virtue of a Federal license. I have 
made several arrests and secured as many convictions. Without comment as to the 
quality of imitation butter, I will quote what Prof. Henry F. Nachtrict, of the 
Minnesota State University, says, after making many tests: 

"The best and cleanest looking samples had a butter odor and taste, and would 
readily pass for butter. It had a very snuill variety of living organisms, but a great 
many spores, which, under favorable conditions, I have no doubt, would germinate. 
It also contained masses of dead mold, l)its of cellulous wood, various colored particles, 
shreds of hair, bristles, etc. The other 2 samples teemed with life, and yielded 
microscopic preparations of the mold and bacteria that Avould have gladdened the 
heart of the student of biology. The microscope revealed the fact that the greatest 
variety of life existed in the inner portions of these samples, and that the outer por- 
tions contained the greatest quantity of active bacteria. The animals found in the 
butterin belong to the type of protozoa. Doul)tful portions of worms were also 
noticed. Many of the protozoa, under favorable conditions, pass into a encysted 
stage or develop spores within protected capsules, and in these conditions lie dor- 
mant till the environment is again favorable, and it can hardly be doubted that some 
of the many spores found in butterine were merely in a dormant state. The great 
number and variety of organisms found in the samples indicate the use of foul water 
and a criminally filthy jirocess in making it. There can not be the slightest doubt 



38 

that the person who eats so promiscuous and lively a mixture as the hutterin exam- 
ined is running great risk, morally as well as i>hysically. The peace and happiness 
of future generations are greatly involved in the life of the present generation. By 
indulging in our homes in articles of food filled Avith spores and seeds of the various 
classes of the lower organisms we are increasing the dangers of parasitism. 
Spores that are now harmless may, by gradual adaptation, through more or less cir- 
cuitous routes, become inimical to the health and happiness of countless millions." 

Ill a lette: to Hon. W. S. Mason, mayor of Portland, Oreg., Hon. W. 
W. Baker says: 

In February, 1891, when I assumed the duties of Oregon State food commissioner, 
I found that my predecessor had not required retailers, hotels, and restaurants to 
comply with our law regarding dairy jjroducts, and as a consequence our markets 
were full of oleomargarin. In addition to this, I found that no special require- 
ments had been demanded of milk supply dairj^men, and as a consequence a very 
large j»roportion of the milk and cream was adulterated. A vigorous enforcement 
of our law soon knocked out the oleomargarin and to a very great extent brought 
to consumers a good quality of milk. My report shows that there were but two 
wholesale oleomargarin licenses and no retail license taken out to sell the ^'stuff ' 
in this State during my two years' term, and, indeed, most of that which had been 
licensed was still in the wholesalers' hands when my term expired. But during the 
succeeding thirty days the whole stock was '^ dumped," and home butter declined 
from li to 15 cents per j^ound. No effort has been made to discover whether or not 
there was any adulterated cheese. My report also shows that a constant vigilance 
was required to force a supply of good, pure, normal milk. 

That there is much adulterated food in our market there is no question — I figure 
that at least 15 per cent of all foods — but as to how much of it is adulterated with 
injurious ingredients I have no means of knowing, for the reason that I had no 
funds at my command to make satisfactory investigations. 

PENNSYLVANIA. 

From Alonzo Bobbins, president of the Pennsylvania Pharmaceuti- 
cal Examining Board, Eleventh and Yine streets, Philadelphia, Pa. : 

You may remember that some time ago I handed to you a copy of last year's pro- 
ceedings of the Pennsylvania Pharmaceutical Association, in which are recorded 
my own efforts to enforce the present State law against adulterations. The results 
are not such as to encourage me to hope for substantial success until the various 
State laws are supported by a vigorous national law. 

From J. A. Miller, secretary. of the Pennsylvania Pharmaceutical 
Association, Harrisburg, Pa. : 

The pharmaceutical examining board is required to prosecute all cases of adultera- 
tion of drugs and medicines. So far the only cases prosecuted have been for the 
adulteration of laudanum. 

Extract from report of committee on adulterations and deterioration, 
fifteenth annual meeting of the Pennsylvania Pharmaceutical Associa- 
tion (pp. 39, 40) : 

It was not considered of any profit to gather drugs and preparations from differ- 
ent stores and have them analyzed, as this work has been so fully done by Prof. 
Trimble and the students working under him, that we all fully recognize that there 
is quite a want of conformity to the U. S. Pharmacopffiia, which in some cases 
amounts to more than neglect, indeed must be called a crime. 



39 

Neither was it coiisidercl advisable to collect specimens for analysis with a view 
to prosecutiou, as this workhasheen so well done by theprevious committee that it was 
decided that the best thing to do was to assist the board of j)harmacy in j)nshing to 
a conclusion the snits to be instituted on the evidence already in hand. The 
exjienses of the committee, amouiiting to $45, were caused by the necessity for com- 
pensating the principal witnesses for the prosecution for the time lost owing to the 
law's delay; vouchers for the same have been forwarded to the treasurer. It may 
be asked what has been obtained in return for the money expended and the work 
performed. We tliink that, in the first place, it has given notice to the druggists of 
the State what they may expect if they violate the law, and has rendered them una- 
ble to plead ignorance of the same. In the second place, it has caused an improve- 
ment in the strength of the preparations sold, in at least some of the stores of the 
Commonwealth. 

From E. A. Wallis, 3124 Westmont street, Philadelphia, Pa.: 

It was my exjjerience while chairman of the committee on adulterations and dete- 
riorations for the Pennsylvania Pharmaceutical Association that, under existing law 
in this State, prosecutions are useless. It is a dead letter here. 

From F. 0. Clemson, Eeading, Pa. : 

To juy mind, so long as the consuming public demand cheapness in preference to 
purity so long will adulterants be niade and used. 

From William O. Farley, druggist, Lancaster, Pa. : 

The only foreign substance incorporated with butter, to my knowledge, is butter 
color, which, is used only in winter to give a golden tinge to what would be other- 
wise white butter. Butter colors are usually made of annetto or turmeric, held in 
suspension in cotton-seed or olive oil. 

From J. A. Miller, secretary Pharmaceutical Association, Harris- 
burg, Pa. : 

So far the only cases prosecuted have been for laudanum. 

From William H. McGarrah, president Pennsylvania Pharmaceuti- 
cal Association, Scranton, Pa.: 

Our association at each annual meeting appoints a committee to test or analyze 
all suspected adulterations. The result for a number of years has demonstrated 
that, with few exceptions, adulteration in drugs is not prevalent in this State. The 
committee has found that the powdered drugs were more frequently adulterated 
when competing with prices below the market value, the adulterant being an inert 
matter, usually cocoa-shell bark, powdered. 

From Prof. Leffman, 715 Walnut street, Philadelphia, Pa. : 

Some years ago the Dairymen's Protective Association of Pennsylvania, to which 
I have been acting as chemist, sent me samples of butter in small cakes (one-fourth 
pound), which was ''si retched," that is, contained excess of water. It would lose 
considerable Aveight and shrink much on being kept a few days. It was made in 
the lower part of the city. I could get but little information about it, except that 
the so-called " cottage cheese" was used. 

The Medical News, of January 28, 1893, contains the following table 
of analyses of malt extracts, made by Henry Leftmann, m. d., of Phila- 
delphia: 



40 



Analytic notes on liquid malt extracts. 



No. 


Brand. 


Claims. 


Alcohol. 


Solid 
ext. 
grms. 

to 
lOOcc. 


Salicylic 
acid. 


Diastatic 
effect. 


1 


Blair's 






16.06 
5.35 
25.22 
15.4 
14.1 
8.97 
10.23 
5.24 
12.89 

9.58 

10.24 

8.44 

5.1 


None 

....do 

Present. .. 

None 

....do 

Present... 

None 

....do 

....do 

....do 

Present. . . 

None 

....do 




9 




Less than 4 per cent alcohol . 
No alcohol 


3 per cent 

Present 

6 per cent 

2.98 per cent . . 

Present 

do 


Do. 


3 


Dukehart's 

Genois' 


Do 


4 


Less than 4 per cent alcohol . 
Less than 3 per cent alcohol . 


Do 


5 


Wyeth's 


Do. 


G 


Malt-Hopine 


Do 


7 






Do 


8 


English 




....do 


Do. 


9 

10 


Wampole's 

Standard 


A trifle over 4 per cent of 

alcohol. 
Absolutely free from alcohol. 


7-7 per cent... 

3 per cent 

Present 

do 


Do. 
Do. 


11 


Tarrant's 


Do. 


12 






Do. 


IS 


"Trade" 


Highest per cent of extract 
and lowest of alcohol of any 
malt extract in use. 


3 per cent 


Do. 









The foregoing table does not require mucli comment. It is apparent from the 
assays that the liquid malt extracts are mostly beers; that they have but little if any 
value as either food or digestives, and that several of them are positively injurious. 
* " * 1 learn that at least one of the larger breweries makes a malt extract 
which is furnished in quantity, ^ * * I have designated this as ''Trade" 
extract (No. 13). It apparently finds considerable sale. 

As might be expected, no diastatic power was observed in any of the samples. 

From Perry M. Gleiue, druggist, 213 Eebecca street, Allegheny, Pa; 

I am informed that the oil used in the manufacture of butterin is jjroduced very 
largely here, and shipped extensively to Chicago, where it is used in manufacturing 
the same, none being made in this locality. 

The law in this State prohibits the manufacture and sale of oleomargarin, but 
dealers still persist in selling the same, notwithstanding that the records of the 
court will show that there have been over 500 prosecuted for violating the law while 
protected, as they thought, by paying an internal -revenue fee. 

Regarding cheese, it is not manufactured in this market, large quantities being 
shipped here from Chicago. Consequently we have no information on the adultera- 
tion of the same. 

To the best of my knowledge and belief, children's foods, dairy, and pharmaceu- 
tical prei)arations, are sold strictly pure and up to the standard. We have a State 
pharmacy law which prohibits these adulterations, a State board empowered to pro- 
secute violators, composed of five members, reputable pharmacists, often years' and 
more experience in the drug business. 

From G. A. Harapson, secretary of Pennsylvania Cider and Jelly 
Makers' Association, North East, Pa. : 

The extent to which the adulteration of vinegar and jellies is carried is almost 
beyond belief. Fully four-fifths of all the vinegar of the commerce of the United 
States to-day is made from something else than apple juice and is artificially colored 
to resemble cider vinegar. This is one of the primary causes of the decadence of the 
apple orchards throughout the country. The Pennsylvania State Cider and Jelly 
Makers' Association, of which I am secretary, at their last session pledged themselves 
to work for the enforcement and securing of a national food and drug law, compelling 
the branding of all articles. .Jellies of all kinds are also extensively adulterated; 
and it goes without saying that such adulteration is exceedingly deleterious to 
health. Furthermore, without some law properly enforced it is difficult for the honest 
manufacturer to compete with fraud and colored goods. We have a vinegar law 
in Pennsylvania, but there is no provision made for the enforcement of same. Con- 



41 

sequently it is practically a dead letter. We are satisfied that nothing sliort of a 
national law ^vill etiectively alVord relief. 

The extent to which scientific adulteration in vinegar and jellies is carried is fast 
freezing out the honest manufacturers, and soon there will he few pure goods left 
on the market. 

In hehalf of the Pennsylvania Cider and Jelly Makers' Association we earnestly 
urge the passage of a national pure-food law. Certainly no honest man can oppose 
the passage of such a law; but the immense capital engaged iu adulteration will 
doubtless bring no end of pressure to defeat such law. In 1879 Congress passed 
a law granting the privilege of making low wines or weak whisky for vinegar-mak- 
ing Avithout the payment of any revenue tax Avbatever. The eftects of this law have 
been most disastrous. 

The mills making this whisky vinegar are fitted up distillery fashion and are 
always located in the larger cities. The vinegar made from this weak whisky is in 
its natural state absolutely colorless, resembling water. But it is artificially colored 
to resemble cider vinegar, and is branded and sold throughout the country as cider 
vinegar. This vinegar is made principally from corn, but there is also a small 
admixture of rye. This com vinegar can be made at a cost of 2 cents a gallon, and 
after it is colored to resemble cider vinegar, is sold at a price with which the honest 
cider-maker can not compete. But the cider-maker and orchardist arc not the only 
sufferers. 

The consumers are slowly poisoned by this artificially colored product and don't 
know what ails them. AVhen Congress passed the iniquitious vinegar law of 1879 
the numerous cider mills throughout the country began to go to the wall. There is 
not one cider mill now where there used to be five. It Avas a long time before the 
average cider-maker discovered what was the matter with his business. He looked 
on in helpless wonder at those fellows from the cities with their wonderfully cheap 
vinegar aud such prodigious quantities of it. But he discovered finally what was 
the matter, and for years has been trying to undo what Congress did 1879. 

A bill has been introduced in Congress at every session since that time looking to 
the repeal of this law, but the corn men have defeated it every time. We tried to 
get the Paddock pure-food bill passed, but without success. It was fought bitterly 
by the vast capital of the country invested in the business of adulteration. 

From Hu^o Andriessen, druggist, Beaver, Pa. : 

My next door corner grocery store neighbor sells his "pure powdered spices," put 
up in attractive 2>ackages. cheaper than I can purchase the whole spices at lowest 
Avholesale rates. 

He can aftbrd to seJl *' pure extract vanilla" iu large handsome bottles, artistic- 
ally labeled, at 10 cents a bottle, while I, leaving the Tonca bean out, have to charge 
25 cents, and let the trade go to the dishonest dealers. These few illustrations, I 
believe, suffice. It is the same with butter (oleomargarin), pure whisky (blended, 
comi)ound-flavored spirits), wines, and even tinctures, extracts, and other articles 
of the United States Pharmacopoeia. 

From William B. Thompson, 4804 Trinity Place, Philadelphia, Pa.: 

I know of no law on our statute books which provides penalties for the adultera- 
tion of food and drugs. The only condemnation which flagrant r.nd obA«ious instances 
elicit, is the meager privilege of returnhig the rejected article to the seller with a 
feeble remonstrance against the sale of immature flesh, that which is known as 
''monkey veal" and damaged food material. 

Every State pharmacy law has a clause or clauses against the adulteration of drugs 
and medicine, but there is no provision made for punishment. That which is 
everybody's business to expose and detect seems to be the business or concern of 
nobody, hence the evil continues. 



42 

That there does exist, to a very great and liurtful extent, systematic adulteration 
and admixture in drugs, an attenuation and criminal dilution of many domestic 
and household remedies in medicines, a willful compounding of inert substances 
with spices, and a mean mingling of worthless stuff with articles of prepared food, 
no ohserving or well-informed person can or will deny. Therefore, whatever may 
be the merit or demerit of the Paddock bill, do let us have something in the way 
of law that will protect against the merceuarj' avarice and greed of wicked and 
Hnscrupulous persons. 

From Gliarles W.Hancock, druggist, PlilladelpL la, Pa.: 

There seems to be an honest desire on the part of retail pharmacists to procure 
and sell those preparations that are standard, and this desire is increasing, though 
there have been a few instances lately where the officers of the State pharmaceu- 
tical examining board had several parties arrested and bound over at court for selling 
laudanum not up to the United States Pharmacopceia standard. 

SOUTH CAROLINA. 

From S. J. Duffie, druggist, Columbia, S. C: 

The adulteration of food and drugs in this State is carried on to a considerable 
extent, but there being no officers nor local laws to restrict same, I can not give any 
reliable data bearing on the subject. However, I am convinced, from a little obser- 
vation of a personal nature, that a law on the same would be a great remedy for the 
worthless products which are now carried from place to place and sold in disguise. 
A great many preparations, such as laudanum, paregoric, etc., instead of containing 
the amount of opium prescribed by the pharmacopoeia, have in their composition 
an amount insufficient to do any good whatever. There are a great many prepara- 
tions which are thus weakened, and I am surethey endanger the lives of the people 
who take them. Such a case, if brought into court and proved, in all likelihood 
would be thrown out on the cry of jealousy, but if we had a national law on the 
subject and parties to enforce same, I am positive of good results. This is a subject 
in which I have taken a great deal of interest, but having no law to back me^ have 
given np. 

V VERMONT. 

From W. W. Cooke, director State Agricultural Experiment Station, 
Burlington, Yt. : 

In Vermont there is no law concerning the adiilteration of food and drugs, except 
a single statute relating to watering or skimming milk delivered at creameries or 
cheese factories, or retailed on the streets. This law has been quite rigidly 
enforced during the last three or four years, and has very largely decreased the extent 
to which this adulteration has been carried. There are no local laws in this State 
bearing on this sul)ject. I should be very much in favor of a national food and 
drug law, provided one could be framed that would at all hit the necessities of the 
case. 

MAPLE SUGAR. 

From Hon. H. M. Hayues, internal-revenue agent, Monti^elier, Yt. : 

Vermont has a stringent law against adulteration of maple sugar, and as all such 
adulterations must be done secretly and in fear of penalty, it is not a matter 
admitting of statistical statement any more than illegal liquor selling or any other 
statutory violation. In my special work here in connection with maple-sugar bounty, 
however, I have endeavored to gather information in regard to this practice, and 
will summarize the results r.nd my conclusions: 

(1) I do not think the practice of adulterating maple sugar is nearly as extensive 



■■M 



43 

as many ])cople who liave not marto the study of it suppose. It is not easy in this 
comparatively sparsely settled State for a sugar-maker to lay in a supply of sugar 
other than maple, in ({uantitios large enough to make extensive adulterations, with- 
out making himself an object of suspicion. 

(2) Whatever adulteration has been or is done is not, as is supposed by the unini- 
tiated, with low-grade cane sugar and glucose, but with refined or granulated 
sugars. This, mixed with dark and low-grade maple sugar, tends to lighten it in 
color and texture, and correspoudingl3^ increases its market value. I am satisfied 
that but an extremely small proportion of the sugar as it leaves the makers in this 
State contains anything but pure maple. It is a well-known fact, however, that 
great quantities of low-grade maple sugar, made from the last runs of sap, rank, 
woody, dark, and commanding a price of not more than 5 cents in the market, is 
bought up by manipulators iu the large cities, worked over, purified, and adulter- 
ated, and thrown on the market the following sjiring as '^ genuine maple sugar," 
weeks before any maple sugar has been produced iu the maple-sugar districts. 
This is a fraud on the purchaser who thinks he is buying new maple sugar, although 
the preparation he buys is infinitely more palatable and quite as good for the 
stomach as the cheap maple Avhich is the basis of the preparation. The cheap stuff 
thus manipulated amounts to hundreds, possibly thousands, of tons each year. 

WEST VIRGINIA. 

From 0. CBrown^ secretary of State Board of Agriculture, Charleston, 
W. Ya.: 

We think a national law governing food and drug adulteration would prove a 
great blessing to our people. 

From Dr. J. W. McCoy, health officer, Wheeling, W. Va. : 

I have just learned that some farmers living close to this city have recently 
brought an action against vendors of oleomargarin, who sold it contrary to law in 
this State, the law requiring the product to be colored pink. 

From Hon. H. M. Turner, Shepherd stown, W. Ya. : 

I think a national pure-food bill should be passed and all food adulterations in 
this way lessened if not entirely broken up. 

From B. F. Irons, M. D., Pickaway, W. Ya. : 

There is one matter that needs correction in our State, .viz, whisky adulteration. 
Our druggists as a rule keep a very inferior and, in my opinion, badly adulterated 
whisky. I often get whisky for my patients that they can not use and have to 
send to another State for it, and I would be glad to see a national law which would 
compel the druggists to use or sell nothing but pure whisky. 

WISCONSIN. 

From Prof. Andrew S. Mitchell, analytical chemist, Milwaukee, Wis. : 

In 1890 I caught a milkman adding anuotto to skimmed milk and got a confession. 

Last week I received a barley that I believe to have l)een bleached with SO.2 
fumes. Four years ago, when cocoa leaves were A'-ery high in price, I purchased two 
samples in different stores and neither contained one cocoa leaf. This leaf has two 
faint false ribs parallel to rnid rib, and is characteristic. 

I know of '^ coffee extract '^ containing no coffee and no chicory. I also have 
some flour-paste coffee-beans that are very natural in appearance. In ten s.imples of 
powdered opium assayed for morphine two fell far T)elow 12 per cent and two others 
scant 12. I have names of makers and details. Tinctures of expensive drugs Avhen 



44 

prepared for country trade, and where competition is lively, very seldom are up to 
grade. A house in this city mixes ground llaxsecd to order for any price. We have 
a good State food and dairy commission here, and they keep at work and get convic- 
tions, hut thes^ have more than their hands full with the dairy work alone 

From R. Sauerhering, pharmacist, Mayville, Wis. : 

No adulteration is practiced hy our farmers, although sometimes stones are 
emhedded in a tub of hutter to increase the weight, which hardly can he classed 
an adulteration. It is clearly fraud. 

From D. L. Harkness, dairy and food commissioner, of Wisconsin : 

MILK. 

It is now generally recognized that the only way to market milk, and especially 
where it is sold to cheese factories or creameries, is to sell it hy the ratio of butter 
fat tliat it contains. 

Selling milk regardless of quality for the purpose of making butter or cheese is 
just as absurd as selling hogs by the dozen the same as eggs. The ingredient that 
determines the value of the milk is the butter fat, and it is not only unbusiness-like, 
but unjust and unlawful, that a man who skims and waters his milk should receive 
the same price for an article that contains but 2| per cent as the man who delivers a 
clean, unadulterated article containing 4 or 5 per cent of butter fat. 

If no tests are made of the milk received at a cheese factory or creamery, the only 
gauge the manager has to follow is the number of pounds of cheese or butter that all 
the milk delivered makes, and if he pays the different patrons on this basis, the 
man who delivers good milk is paid no more than the man who previously removes 
a portion of the cream and converts it to his own use, or makes it into butter and 
sells it on the market. 

The use of the Babcocktest in the factory will remove this objection, and if pay- 
ment is made upon the actual results of the tests, each man is paid for exactly what 
he delivers, and, moreover, the farmer who persistently waters or skims his milk is 
soon detected and is laid liable to the law for the deception that he endeavors to 
practice. 

The standard adopted by the State, namely, 3 per cent of butter fat, is none too 
high, aitd it has been the experience of the members of this commission that the 
standard might be raised to 3^ per cent and do no injustice to the large majority 
of the patrons of our creameries and cheese factories. 

SUGARS. 

It is an open secret that almost every granulated sugar on the market is more or 
less adulterated with glucose, if with nothing more harmful, and it is such gigantic 
frauds as this that merit the attention of everyone that is interested in the adoption 
of laws that will compel the huge corporations that put forth such necessary articles 
of consumption to regard the health and legal rights of the public. 

DRUGS. 

In reviewing the various forms of adulteration the falsification and adulteration 
of drugs can not be too strongly condemned. It should be regarded as a far more 
heinous crime than the cheapening of some of the commoner articles of daily con- 
sumption. 

We employ drugs only in the cases of direst necessity, and upon their action many 
times hang by slender threads the lives of those who are dear to us. 

For instance, the doctor gives his patient a carefully calculated dose of iienbane, 
and not receiving the result that he anticipated increases the dose until he gets the 
desired effect. Perhaps in this instance his patient recovers, and the good doctor, 



45 

believing his druggist is the soul of honor — as indeed he is, for adulteration is seldom 
practiced among the retailers — makes a mental note of the fact that the patient has 
a peculiar idiosjnicrasy in that he needs a much larger dose of henbane than that 
commonly given to obtain any benefit from it. Let us suppose that this patient has 
a relapse and once more calls the doctor. The medical man instantly remembers 
that he gave a very large dose of henbane in his former treatment before the disease 
succumbed, and lie now decides to at once give what would appear to be a dangerous 
dose. He does so and sends the prescription to the druggist, who in the meantime 
has procured some of the solid extract of the drug that has not passed through the 
tender hands of the sophisticator, and he compounds the physician's prescription 
from this new supply. The patient takes it, his symptoms become alarming, and he 
may even die, and all the doctor can do is to marvel at the peculiarities of this man 
who could take an extremely large dose of henbane in June, but who was poisoned 
by precisely the same dose in July. 

Although the purpose and scope of this commission is better understood than 
formerly, still letters are received stating that samples have been forwarded for 
analysis and asking that the bill for the work be sent to the consignor. 



Of late years spurious coffees have appeared upon the market and are advertised 
openly without any attempt to conceal either their composition or purpose. 

The prices quoted on these imitations are astonishingly low, being in one case 6 
cents per pound in small lots and 5|^ cents in barrel lots. These artificial coffee beans 
are made in close imitation of the genuine article, and taken in their unmixed 
state would deceive the eye of the most skillful observer. Upon a mere cursory 
examination the most particular housewife would pronounce them to be cofice 
beans of an excellent color and good roast. Without doiibt the most common adult- 
erant of coffee is chicory, but these coffee ''pellets," as they are sometimes called, 
are fast supplanting chicory on account of their smaller cost. The pellets are 
composed of rye or wheat flour, are moulded in the shape of the genuine bean and 
held together by means of glucose or some similar vehicle, and are colored in imita- 
tion of a roasted coffee. Of course they have none of the properties of coffee, 
nor do they resemble it either in taste or smell, but when mixed with the genuine 
article, even in so large a quantity as 30 or 40 per cent, they are not easily detected 
except by expert examination. 

It is not an uncommon practice to treat inferior or damaged coffees by some proc- 
ess for the improvement of their appearance and in imitation of superior grades. 
Java seems to have been especiall}^ subject to this treatment, or rather other coffees 
are colored in imitation of Java. South American coffees are often exposed to a 
high, moist heat, which changes their color from green to brown, thus forming imi- 
tation Java. 

Various pigments are also used in coloring coffees. The Division of Chemistry of 
the U. S. Department of Agriculture found as high as one-twenty-fourth grain of 
Scheele's green in one-half ounce of coffee. Scheele's green is a combination of cop- 
per and arsenious acid, both violent poisons. Yellow ocher, silesian blue, chrome 
yellow, burnt umber, Venetian red, drop black, charcoal, and French black have 
been used to color coffees, and it is polished by rotation in cylinders with soapstone. 
Raw coffees which have been damaged by sea water are washed, decolorized with 
limewater, again washed, rapidly dried, and colored by a slight roasting by azo- . 
orange. By this method Santos coffees are converted into imitation Javas. The 
weight lost is regained by steaming and then coating the beans with glycerin, palm 
oil, or vaseline to prevent evaporation. 

Coffees are sometimes faced with Prussian blue or indigo, lead chromate, etc. The 
following list of facing mixtures is from the published investigations of K. Sykora: 
First, mixture of indigo, lead chromate, coal, and clay; second (approximately), 5 



46 

parts indigo, 10 parts coal, 4.5 parts lead cliroinate, 65.5 parts clay, and 15 parts 
ultramarine; third (approximately), 5 jKirts indigo with some yellow dye, 3 parts 
coal, 8 parts lead chromate, 82 parts clay, 2 parts ultramarine; fourth (approxi- 
mately), 12 parts indigo, and some yellow dye, 5.5 parts coal, 4.5 parts lead chromate, 
6.6 jiarts clay, and 12 parts ultramarine. 

The most criminal part of adulteration of this sort is that the cheapest classes of 
goods suffer the most and the very people who can least afford to he preyed upon are 
the very ones at whom these acts are directed. The dealer who caters to those in 
the humbler walks of life is nine times out of ten compelled to sell his wares at a 
merely nominal profit, and unless he is shrewd enough and firm enough to refuse 
to extend credit he suffers by the loss of accounts that he has allowed to run or been 
unable to collect, and to compensate himself for this loss he often resorts to substitu- 
tution and adulteration. Many articles that in themselves are not deleterious are 
sold fraudulently and in these instances it is the aim of the laws of this State and 
the endeavor of this commission to protect not only the health but also the pocket- 
books of the people of AVisconsin. 

Another method that is used to defraud the innocent purchaser is the so-called 
'' sweating'' of coffee and spices. The coffee or spice is subjected to a process of 
extraction whereby the essential oils and other principles are removed, and after 
being reroasted and colored, and in some instances chemically doctored to impart 
something of its original flavor, it is put upon the market as being genuine and sold 
as such. This process, of course, allows the dishonest dealer to reap two profits 
upon each lot of goods. It is especially employed in the extraction of the vital prin- 
ciple of coffee, of most of the spices that have an acrid oil. as mustard, and also upon 
the various sources of the flavoring extracts, especially ui)ou the vanilla bean. 

The most of the flavoring extracts upon the market, and more especially those 
exhibiting the qualities of the tropical fruits, the banana, pineapple, etc., are pre- 
pared from ethers and artificial flavoring agents that are certainly most injurious. 
The so-called *' almond " flavoring extract is made in many cases from the oil ofmir- 
bane or from nitrobenzol, both of which are exceedingly poisonous. 

The writer has occupied his present position since September 1, 1892, and in that 
time the samples of milk that we have received, numbering about 1,500* have made an 
excellent average. Recently we have been doing considerable work in the enforcement 
of our vinegar laws, and in this field we find much need of attention, the j)rincipal 
violations being the sale of brown goods for cider, and the sale of goods that run 
below 4 per cent in acetic acid, there being but few cases where mineral acids have 
been added. Other food products have exhibited the usual run of adulteration. 

The members of our commission are the only State officials charged with the duty 
of enforcing the laws against the adulteration of foods aud drugs, other than the State 
board of health and the State board of pharmacy. 

Teas, coffees, spices, baking powders, and, in fact, almost all of t^e culinary sup- 
plies are adulterated in many instances, and the average consumer is not in a position 
to determine when he is defrauded, nor is he in a position to successfully resent the 
deception were he able to detect it. 

From Andrew S. Mitchell, analytical cliemist aacl assaj^er, 436 Mil- 
waukee street, Milwaukee, Wis. : 

We need national supervision of the sale of food and drugs; and the supervision 
must come from experts Avho are specialists, and they must be beyond the reach of 
politics. 

Adulteration is common in almost all branches of trade. 

I have found boracic acid in milk and have had one skimmed sample that was col- 
ored with annotto. 

There is very little cider vinegar here that is not low wine vinegar colored with 
caramel, I Ijave at present samples of cheese made jroiu skimmed, milk to which 



47 

have been added margarine fats to replace the Imttcr removed. Under the State 
law these can not he sold without branding, so the makers consign them to themselves 
in Chicago, 111. When they arrive there they are placed on the market there as they 
have no one appointed to enforce their laws. 

I have met the paste coflee bean and " black pepsin "' for bntter. Spices are all 
more or less reduced. I worked on one ginger a short time ago, and found turmeric 
and wheat flour. 

From George S. Oox, State chemist, Wisconsin dairy and food com- 
mission, Madison, Wis. : 

The Wisconsin dairy and food commission is testing about 600 samples of various 
food products in the laboratory each month. Many of these are milk samples, and 
since the commission began operations, about four years ago, marked improvements 
hare become apparent in the quality of the milk that is offered for sale, both to the 
creameries and cheese factories and also for private consumption. Inspections have 
been made in the larger cities of Wisconsin and it is safe to say that whole milk is 
very generally sold in this State. 

Recently there has been considerable agitation of the vinegar question with us. 
Our laws require 4 per cent of acetic acid in all vinegars and 2 per cent of cider 
solids in all cider vinegars and make the sale of a vinegar below this standard 
a misdemeanor, punishable by a tine of from $10 to $100. The department has made 
a number of prosecutions under this law since the opening of the year, with bene- 
ficial results. When active operations were commenced in this line, about 50 per 
cent of the vinegars sold in the State did not comply with this law. This was mainly 
due to the manufacturers, who, having enjoyed immunity from interference, con- 
tinued to ship into Wisconsin goods that could not be sold elsewhere When the 
vinegar law was passed in 1891, immediate steps were taken to notify all manufac- 
turers and dealers in vinegar of its provisions, and samples were frequently taken at 
A'arious points and were reported upon in order to bring the law into greater promi- 
nence; After these premonitory measures, suits were commenced against some of 
those who were violating the statute, and in all cases, excepting one, the parties either 
entered a plea of guilty or were convicted as charged. In all instances where the 
vinegar had been supplied them by a reliable house the fines, which were made as 
low as possible, were refunded by the wholesaler and, as the expense came out of the 
wholesaler or manufacturer, they at once took steps to send nothing but legal vine- 
gar into the State. 

At present many of the retail dealers throughout the State make a practice of 
sending small samples of every lot of vinegar purchased to the commission, where it 
is analyzed and reported upon free of any charge to them, and they are thus enabled 
to guarantee their customers a legal article and, at the same time, to protect them- 
selves against the unscrupulous manufacturer. 

On the whole the work of the department has been beneficial, but these benefits 
to the people have been somewhat curtailed by the lack of laws that can be readily 
enforced. 

The Wisconsin laws fix an arbitrary standard for three articles of food only, viz, 
vinegar, milk, and cheese. In regard to other food products and drugs, it lies Avith 
the commissioner and his assistants to prove that the substance in question is injuri- 
ously adulterated. 

In many instances it is impossible to do this, as, in the eyes of the average jury, 
ji substance is injtirious only when its deleterious effects are inmiediate and apparent. 

The commission consists of a commissioner, dairy expert, and the State chemist. 
Chapter 452, Laws of Wisconsin, 1889, clearly defines the duties and powers of these 
orticers, but, with the exceptions above cited, the laws they are charged with enfor- 
cing are almost inoperative. The law regulating the sale of drugs is a notable 
instance, but it is so framed that a conviction is almost an impossibility, and in the 
pleveu years that it has been on the statute books t^iere hH§ not been one iustaoc© 



48 

of a coQviction under it. Nevertlieless, it is hardly possible that there are no adul- 
terated drugs in Wisconsin. 

The members of the commission framed a bill that was introduced into the legis- 
lature of this year, but it died in the hands of a committee after vigorous opposition 
from some of the leading drug firms of the State. 

This measure was practically a copy of the laws now in force in Ohio, New York, 
and New Jersey, and, like the laws of these States, referred the standard of drugs to 
the United States Pharmacopceia. 

The writer had occasion several times lo champion the measure and found Ihe 
great objection to the section that treated upon drugs to be as follows: It was 
argued that if the bill became a law and any drug should difi'er very slightly from 
the prescribed limits of the Pharmacopoeia, the druggist dispensing the same would 
be liable to a prosecution maliciously instituted by a business rival or a personal 
enemy. While this objection seems to carry some weight uj)on its face, it must be 
remembered that the Pharmacopoeia itself permits some variability in drugs, and in 
the matter of a tincture, for example, before a suit could be tried, its strength or 
quality would necessarily have to bo determined by a chemist or other expert, and 
to him it would quickly become apparent whether the article had heen fraudulently 
tampered with or whether the variation from the standard was an unavoidable one 
and originated through some natural cause and by no fault of the maker. 

The members of this commission are strongly in favor of a law that will ^' compel 
the branding of articles of food and drugs shipped from one State into another. " 

The need of such a law is daily apparent in our work. We can have recourse upon 
a manufacturer within the confines of our State who makes spurious goods, but if he 
locates just over the State line we can direct our attacks upon his goods only against 
the retailer, who is generally innocent of any intent to deceive his customers and is 
himself a victim of the manufacturer. 

From W. F. Montgomery, druggist and pharmacist, Appleton, Wis.: 

In cheese-making there is some cream or brick cheese made with old butter, poor 
cheese, and a little cream to work them up with, which gives it the beautiful odor 
usually found around a free-lunch counter. 

In regard to children's food, all the dry food on the market that I have seen and 
tested is all right. But it must be kept air-tight and in a cool, dry i)lace. All the 
condensed milks or foods in market are dangerous articles for the use of children. 
In fact, the Government had better offer a premium to every mother to feed her chil- 
dren in the natural way; our country would grow physically, hence mentally. 

Most of the cry of adulteration of infants' foods throughout the country is made 
by poor M. D. quacks and cranks. When called to see children that are ailing, not 
having ability to diagnose the disease, they add more to the little child's suffering 
by advising the mother to change the food, aiul then if the child dies, the last food 
given was adulterated, so as to let the doctor out. 

From George E. Banks, Tomali, Wis. : 

As to adulteration, I find marked instances in commercial cream of tartar, 
bicarbonate of soda, and so-called olive oils. 

From G. W. Wright, druggist, Platteville, Wis. : 

There is a large amount of butter color used here. 

I have made but few examinations of drugs for adulterations, as my original 
work has been in organic chemistry. The only cases that have come under my notice 
are as follows : 

(1) Gum asafetida, in which small pieces of flint were used to represent the " tears" 
of the true gum. At least 50 per cent of the sample I had was earthy matter. 

(2) Glycerin, such brands as are iisually quoted at about 14 or 1^ cents a pound. I 



49 

have examined several that were marked '' chemically pure," ''for medicinal pur- 
poses," and found that they nearly all showed the presence of cane sugar. The test 
used was that of the United States Pharmacopada, 1890. 

(3) Wintergreeu herb. This sample was the worst I had ever seen. It had the 
appearance of having been taken from a henhouse, and it was so poor a substitute for 
wintergreen herb that I returned it to the house I got it from without making any 
other examination. 

From E. F. liainslaiid, Westly, Wis. : 

Children's foods arc nearly all patent or proprietary articles that may be classed 
as secret nostrums. Some of them are fairly good, but most of them arc of an uncer- 
tain composition. 

Pharmaceutical preparations are very largely adulterated, particularly common 
commercial preparations, and esi^ecially powdered drugs. Many druggists make a 
practice of preparing common preparations of an inferior strength. For instance, I 
might cite that spirits nitrous ether is made in many places with alcohol and Avater 
in equal quantities, and when thus made it quickly deteriorates. It occurs fre- 
quently in the market containing only 1 or 2 per cent of the ethyl nitrite(C2H5N02), 
instead of 5 ])er cent, as the Pharmacopa^a directs. For the dispensing of physi- 
cians' prescriptions I usually find a better grade of goods kept in stock. 

From George W. Corbett, Plymouth, Wis. : 

I have examined several samples of mustard and found nearly all to contain ocher. 

3183—1^0. 41 4 



SOME ADULTERANTS OF FOODS AND DRUGS. 

Following' is a list of some foods and drugs, arranged alphabetically, 
the ordinary sophistications of each article being given under the 
appro^jriate head : 

Absinthe. — Undistilled liquors (from beet). Damaged and inferior 
material, to which is added aromatic resins, benzoins, guaiacum, etc. 

Alcohol. — Methyl alcohol made from wood is largely used in adultera- 
tions. 

Alcoholic liquors. — Fusil oil, tannin, logwood, water, coloring mat- 
ter, burnt sugar. 

Kirschivasser (German cherry brandy) is imitated by a compound of 
apricot and cherry seed, peach leaves dried, myrrh, and alcohol. 

Oin (rye whisky and barley), potatoes and barley, alum, spirits of 
turpentine, sugar, and water. 

Ales, English and American. — Many i)eople prefer English ale. Now, 
whether this is because of its superiority or because it is ^'English" is 
a question that the writer does not pretend to decide. It is a fact that 
the imported article costs more, and as some people grade what they 
buy by the price, probably the preference is due to the increased cost. 

If this be so, and no one can dispute it, thepurchaser of the imported 
and higher x>riced article, is entitled to get the genuine article, and 
when imported ales are mixed with the American product and sold as 
genuine, the fact of such a sale, while neither improving nor lowering 
the quality of the ale, doubtless lowers the standard of honesty, and is 
without doubt a fraud, and commercially an adulteration. The fact 
that over 30 qualities of ale are sold in England should lead the pur- 
chaser to inquire which quality he purchases when he buys the -^ real 
article " on this side of the water. An interesting notice on this subject 
in the New York Analyst points out these and other facts, to wit, that 
the bottler often fails to allow ale to ripen in the casks before confining 
it in bottles, and lastly the writer points out that the clearest and most 
transparent ale is not always the most desirable. In England people 
do not drink as cold drinks as we do, and an English beer brewed to 
use with their temperature of consumption would grow cloudy when 
put in the American ice box. 

Ammonia. — When used in bread or cake to whiten and lighten flour 
is injurious and should be prevented. 

Baking poivders. — Alum for cream of tartar, starch in undue quan- 
tities, coarse hominy. Alum is often used to liberate carbonic acid, 
although not an acid salt. Its use in so-called cream of tartar baking 
50 



51 

powders is clearly an adulteration. In several States its use in baking 
powders is prohibited except wben distinctly branded on tlie label. 
Alum in baking x)owders, when branded as required by law, in some 
States can not be considered an adulteration, as there is no official 
standard, but when sold as cream of tartar powders the use is certainly 
fraudulent, and the article an adulterant. 

Beer. — Burnt sugar, licorice, treacle, quassia, coriander and caraway 
seed, Cayenne pepper, soda, salicylic acid, salt, carbonic gas (artilicially 
injected), grains other than barley, glycerin, glucose, water (by retailers) 
tobacco, and seed of coculus indicus. 

Blaclc pepper. — Buckwheat Hour and hulls, P. D. cracker crumbs, 
corn meal, wheat flour, charcoal, sand, bran, linseed meal, cocoanut 
shells, mustard seed hulls, sawdust, olive stones, Cayenne pepper, red 
clay, and ship bread. There is hardly anything of a refuse character 
that is not used by manufacturers to adulterate pepper. 

Bread. — Alum, sulphate of cox:)per, ammonia, inferior flour, and corn 
meal and rye flours. 

Butter. — Oleomargarin, butterin, water (stretched butter) in undue 
l^roportions, lard, alkalines and rancid butter, cotton oil, beef suet, 
olive oil. 

Candy. — Tartaric acid is used to cut the sugar and prevent granula- 
tion. Glucose is used on account of its cheapness to the extent of 10 
or 20 per cent. Being less sweet than sugar it is a deterioration and 
is, therefore, undoubtedl}^ an adulterant. Chrome yellow, soapstone, 
terra alba, baryta, and starch, are all used to a greater or less extent. 

Cider. — "Country cider," so called, is made by the following method. 
Such cider, ( f) of course, depreciates the market value of apples, and 
is not as healthful nor as palitable as the old-fashioned sort: 

To each gallon of water add one-half pound of granulated sugar, acidulate with 
tartaric acid and flavor with oil of apple, previously put in alcohol; color with 
caramels, and to 20 gallons of this mixture add 2 gallons of genuine country cider. 

Dried apples. — Zinc and copper, weighted with water and sirup and 
water. 

Eggs. — The yolks of eggs are now largely imitated, and it is stated 
that the whole Oigg is now successfully duplicated as a result of scien- 
tific genius. 

Glucose. — It is a clear, transparent, stiff-flowing liquid, which is made 
from corn by the use of sulphuric acid. It is not as sweet as sugar, 
and costs 2 to 3 cents per pound, or about one-half the price of sugar. 
It is used largely in the adulteration of candy, sirup, beer, and jelly. 
Dr. W. P. Tonry says of this article: 

A skilled confectioner told me he considered glucose in any kind of candy unnec- 
essary, injurious to health, and unquestionably an adulterant. 

Glycerin, — Glucose, water. 

Infant foods. — Many of the so-called milk foods contain but little, 
and some no, milk. These foods are principally made from wheat, dif- 
ferently prepared. 



52 

Mace. — Yenetian red mixed with baked cracker or bread dust. 
Spices, — Tlie London Confectioner says : 

In some cases tlie essential oils are even extracted from pure spices prior to 
grinding. 

It is generally believed that the same practice is carried on to a 
large extent in this country not only with spices but with coffee. 

Shrimps. — Colored with Venetian red. 

Seidlitz powder. — Short weight, Epsom salts, and Glauber salts. 

Soaps.— According to the Pharmaceutical Examiner, the German 
soap-makers have directed attention to the frequent adulteration in 
soap. The most common adulterants used are said to be starch, flour, 
tallow, spar, salt, mineral lubricating oil, and excess of water. 

Water.— Le'dd from lead pipes is a fruitful source of bad health and 
should be carefully guarded against. 

A rough but reliable method to detect lead in water is to add a few drops of acetic 
acid talO ounces of the water contained in a pint stoppered bottle, and a grain or 
two of bichromate of potash, and shake well. If the water contains lead it becomes 
opaque, through the formation of bichromate of lead. ■ 

Wine. — The following is of interest in connection with the subject of 
wine adulteration : 

The Britisli consul at Cadiz states that he and a friend, visiting one of the native 
sherry cellars there, were given two samples of wine to drink, which seemed to be 
almost identical, and were told that one was a natural product, and very costly 
($250, equal to £50, a bottle), while the other was a manufactured product, the 
market price of which was only a few cents a bottle. In making the imitation the 
natural product is first analyzed, and the chemist, ascertaining the exact nature of 
its constituent parts, is able to combine them, and thus nearly reproduce the origi- 
nal compound. 



MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION RELATING TO FOOD ADULTER- 
ATION. 

ADULTERATED BEER. 

The Indianapolis Eight and Freedom, of April 1, 1893, says that an 
educated and wealthy German attributes American suicides to adul- 
terated beer, and declares that the adulterants used " have a depress- 
ing effect on the nervous system and dispose the subject to melan- 
choly." Chemically pure beer will produce no such effect. It will be 
remembered in this connection that Germany prohibits the use of 
salicylic acid in beer to be used in the Fatherland, but allows its use 
in beer made for export. 

POISONED BY TINNED BEEF. 

A family residing at Chelmsford partook of some American corned beef for break- 
fast on the morning of Wednesday, March 27. The meat was observed to be slightly 
moist on the surface and did not drop out of the tin readily. It is also stated that 
the meat had a "spicy" flavor, as of thyme. The mother, who is an elderly lady, 
about an hour and a half after breakfast complained of feeling giddy, and shortly 
afterward persistent vomiting supervened, followed by cramps, spasms, and diar- 
rhea. The father, son, daughter, and a maidservant were attacked shortly after, 
and for a time the life of the son was despaired of. All have now recovered. 
Unfortunately the remaining meat was destroyed. This, of course, is to be regretted^ 
as in all such cases the unconsumed portion should be reserved for chemical and 
bacterilogical examination. When examined a few days later the under surface of 
the tin was found to be corroded considerably more than was the case with the 
other tins which had been kept a much longer time. In the scrapings of fat from 
the side of the tin both lead and tin were detected by Dr. Thresh. The symptoms, 
however, were undoubtedly those of i)tomaine poisoning. — American Analyst. 

THE RETAILER NOT ALWAYS TO BLAME. 

Here is proof positive that the Massachusetts Health Board prefers to bring cases 
against the manufacturers and big houses rather than the retailers. Will the Mer- 
chant's Review make a note of it? If we had a national food law what a scamper- 
ing to get under cover there would be by the out-of-the-State frauds. Israel Renaud, 
a wholesale grocer of Fall River, Mass., was arraigned in the district court on a 
charge of violating the food laws by selling maple sirup which had been adulterated 
with glucose. State Inspector McCaffry and his assistant had purchased a can of 
the sirup of a retail- dealer. He informed them that he had purchased it of a Mr. 
Renaud. The defense made a stubborn fight and contended that the goods were 
marked as "compound" and not sold as pure, but the court found the defendant 
guilty and ordered him to pay a fine of $25 and costs. An appeal was taken and 
the case will go to a higher court. — American Analyst, June 1, 189S. 

53 



54 

ADULTERATION OF DAIRY PRODUCTS. 

Hon. James H. Brown, of the New York State dairy commission, in 
an address before the sixteenth annual session of the New York Dairy- 
men's Association, (p. 178, of report) said: 

Our cities and towns were at that time flooded with adulterated milk, butter, and 
cheese, which tended toward discredit and distrust of the New York State products, 
and lessened their consumption, as the goods used were so adulterated that the 
product of the dairyman entered hut a little way in their manufacture. This con- 
dition of affairs would soon have driven our farmer entirely out of business, and 
when he is oppressed or depressed all people of the State must suffer. Without him 
we can not live; and thus it was, that with chalk and water for milk, lard, tallow, 
and horse grease for butter, and cheese enriched with lard, the farmer was certainly 
in a very bad predicament. With this serious state of affairs confronting our land, 
our homes, and our prosperity, it became necessary that something be done imme- 
diately. Our legislature passed and our governor immediately signed the act, and 
ai)pointed as the first New York State dairy commissioner the gentleman who still 
holds that office. I hardly think our legislators had well-defined ideas of what this 
department could do, what it would do, or what it should do. They fully ai)pre- 
ciated the fact that something prompt and decisive must be done, and so passed this 
law, believing it to be the best thing at that time appearing, and I think I am fully 
justified in saying that from later developments it has proved to be the best law for 
the producer and consumer of dairy products that could have been passed. Our 
department always has, and it always must have in order to succeed, the hearty 
cooperation of both the producer and consumer. 

Our law has been amended and new duties added from time to time as experience 
suggested and necessity compelled, until at the present time the dairy commission 
is charged with the execution of the provisions of various laws which provide against 
the manufacture and sale of any article made in semblance or imitation of natural 
butter or cheese; against selling or offering for sale milk that is adulterated, unclean, 
or unwholesome; against branding cheese with a false brand; against the sale of 
adiTlterated vinegar, and also for a system of instruction to improve the quality of 
the butter and cheese manufactured in the State. 

The commissioner became satisfied that the root of the oleomargarine evil was 
the retail dealer; he bought the goods knowing just what they were because they 
were cheap, but in all cases sold them to the consumer for dairy butter. 

The commissioner therefore began with the retail dealer, arresting and prosecut- 
ing every one found, until the business became so risky that very few were Avilling 
to try the sale. 

In 1883 there were upwards of 15,000,000 pounds of the article handled in this 
State, and to-day there is none sold for consumption, excepting possibly a very 
gmall amount clandestinely. It was ascertained that the enforcement of this law 
the first year reduced the sale of these goods fullj^ 50,000 pounds per day. This 
implied, of course, the same number of j^ounds more of butter consumed. This has 
not been accomplished without a struggle and a hard, bitter fight. 

The enforcement of the statute relating to milk has been followed up rigidly. 
The first year or two it was impossible to extend operations over tbe entire State, 
because of a lack of funds. We, therefore, confined our early inspections to New 
York, Brooklyn, and the surrounding counties. This was no small undertaking, as 
statistics show that in 1885 there were shipped into these cities alone 4,835,831 forty- 
quart cans of milk, and that this year 7,040,342 forty-quart cans have been received. 
Our first experience was that quite a large amount of this milk was of poor quality 
and that it arrived in poor shape, but by persistent work we are now able to say 
that dairy products reach the consumer in much better condition and with less 
adulteration than almost any other kind of food. 



55 

To illustrate liow nearly absolutely i>ure our milk product is, we will state our 
recent experience. Desirous of knowing just liow and in what condition as to 
purity tlie milk was when it reached New York city, we directed a sufficient num- 
ber ofexperts to report to the assistant commissioner, having that territory in charge, 
so that he might he able to insi)ect all the milk received in these cities in one day. 
We inspscted that morning 16,371 forty-quart cans and found only 88 of doubtful 
quality, showing only one-half of 1 per cent to have been adulterated. 

It is also another noticeable fact that the milk delivered in these cities by parties 
residing outside of our State shows a much larger percentage of adulteration than 
our own production does, foreign milk showing 4 cans out of each 100 to be adulter- 
ated, while our own shows only three-fourths of 1 can. This is not only very grati- 
fying to us as a department, but it speaks well for the integrity of our dairymen and 
creamery men. 

The assistant commissioners a,re distributed in ditferent portions of the State as 
judiciously as possible. An assistant in the country is able to superintend a much 
larger territory than one in the city, and is accordingly given a large division. 
There is an assistant at each of the following places: Albany, New York City, 
Washiugtonville, Holland Patent, Lowville, Castile, Rochester, Buffalo, and Elli- 
cottville. In this way we are able thoroughly aud systematically to cover the 
whole State. We have also four cheese instructors, Avhose duty it is to go from 
place to place through the State, giving instruction and aid where needed, and to 
endeavor to make our cheese as nearly uniform as possible. 

We have become satisfied that much of the poor cheese on the market is occasioned 
by })oor care of the milk at the farm; hence, we have advocated the necessity and 
importance not only of cleanliness in the milking and surroundings, but of a thorough 
aeration of the milk at the farm instead of cooling in the usual way. 

Aeration, however, has its dangers. We have found people who were faithfully 
using aerators in the cow barns, thus exx^osing their milk in the worst possible man- 
ner, and as a result the maker was obliged to call on us for aid. We traced the diffi- 
culty to two or three dairies and soon straightened the matter out by getting these 
people to use their aerators outside of the baru. I do not think nor does our experi- 
ence show all trouble to be caused by the dairymen. The reports from some facto- 
ries are perfectly astounding, and it seems almost incredible that any should think 
that good cheese could be made in such pens as are sometimes used, or with the 
implements with which they work. They expect our instructor to step into such a 
place, where he is an entire stranger, and make as fine an article as is to be found 
on the market; then, too, there are numbers in this State who are masquerading 
under the colors of cheese-makers when they are not competent or qualified to be a 
helper for some first-class maker. 

The quality of cheese in this State is certainly improving, aud we, as a depart- 
ment, claim our full share of the credit. We have a law relating to the branding of 
cheese, and the number of brands used is increasing each year. This is very gratify- 
. ing to us. We are glad to note the fact that buyers often refuse to purchase cheese 
unless they bear the State brand, and in many cases will pay more for goods so 
stamped. Our uniform experience has been, that Avherever we have been able to 
extend our operations, those interested have been unwilling that any of the force 
should be withdrawn, and insist that our work in their locality be increased. 

It is stated that there has been consumed in the cities of New York and Brooklyn 
during the last year 363,388,840 quarts of milk, condensed milk, and cream, to say 
nothing about the number of quarts of milk required to make the large quantity of 
butter and cheese consumed by these cities. 

We have taken a large number of samj)les of adulterated articles, made many 
arrests, and striven in every way to afford all the protection in our power, both to 
the honest producer and to the consumer. AVe have become satisfied aud our experi- 
ence demonstrates that the protection of the cousumer against unwholesome, impure, 
and adulterated goods, and against frauds of all kinds in this line, as vrell as the 



56 

best interests of the honest dairyman himself, lies not so much in the fact of prose 
cutions as it does in the important fact that there is a department whose special 
duty it is to see that these laws are obeyed. No one knows when an agent of this 
department will appear to test the product. Thus, from fear of detection the person 
disposed to be dishonest will bring honest milk to our creameries, cheese factories, 
and homes. 

The vinegar law is the latest addition to our duties. We are following this up just 
as we have done the others and are meeting with the very same resistance. We are 
winning nearly all our suits, and we jiroposo to stay by and fight it out on this line 
until the trade becomes so unpleasant and unprofitable that no dealer can be found 
willing to handle the goods. 

At the same meeting the following proceedings also occurred : 

A. R. Eastman. You remember last fall when the cholera was at our doors, the 
people said something must be done to stop it, and the governor immediately went 
to work, and he said: ^'Let us buy a quarantine station, and I know if it is bought 
that the people of the State will pay for it." Why ? Because it was to protect the 
interests of the mnsses and not of individuals. The people will not hesitate to pay 
taxes to protect our country from disease. 

Now, we have another disease in this country that is even worse than cholera, if 
we did but know it. It is backed up by millions, and it is trying to push itself into 
the legislature of this State to break down the laws we have to-day. It is not as 
potent on the surface as cholera, or as quick in its work, but it exists and its backers 
are ready to throw it on the market; and it is oleomargarin and butterin. They 
charge that the dairymen of the State are taking $90,000 or $95,000 to protect their 
interests. But this is not true. It is to protect every man, woman, and child in 
this State collectively and not as individuals. Now, this is a question that ought 
to be considered. 

The dairy commissioner's department is not a protection to dairymen alone, but it 
is a protection to the masses. Tlie power back of oleomargarin is money, and we 
know what money can do. It is that class of men that are trying to break down 
our law. Why? Because there are millions of money back of it. If they can 
break down that commission, what have they got? In twenty-four hours they could 
put oleomargarin on the market at 12 cents a pound, and there is millions in it. 

I say we ought to stand by this department. That it has been ably conducted by 
Mr. Brown is undisputed. And the strongest element against him to-day is the men 
who stand ready in twenty-four hours to put butterin and oleomargarin upon the 
market. 

So I am glad Mr. Brown has given us that paper here, and has told us something 
about the department and about the troubles they have to contend with. 

Prof. Babcock. This subject of oleomargarin is something I really come very 
little in contact with. Our own State is protected very much in the same way as 
this State is, except not as thoroughly. In Wisconsin oleomargarin is permitted to 
be sold under its proper name; that is, so long as it is not sold as butter. There is 
no restriction further than that placed upon its sale. I do know, however, that this 
weakness of the law, if I may bo permitted to call it so, has allowed oleomargarin 
to be sold throughout the State, but not under its x)roper name. As to the uuhealth- 
fulness of oleomargarin, I am well aware that there may be a great deal of unhealth- 
ful material put into a mass of that kind. How far it goes I do not know, as I have 
not had opportunity to examine and of course have to accept the evidence as it is 
offered. Whether it is true or not makes no difference to the general public. Every 
one wants to get butter when he wants it. One does not want, under the guise of 
butter, to get something else, whether it is just as good or not, or just as healthful. 
There is a sentiment back of it which sustains them in their desires. Every one 
wants to be protected in that line, be he rich or poor. There is not one person in a 
thousand who, Avlien he asks for butter is not williug to 2)ay the difference between 



57 

butter and oleomargarin, and people do not want anything else foisted upon them, 
and the laws can not he too stringent in this regard. I believe the State of New 
York has been very wise in passing laws prohibiting the sale of oleomargarin in 
any form whatever. I believe laws of this kind are necessary to protect the dairy 
interests against its introduction, and I do not believe it can be done in any half way 
manner whatever. Nobody can deny that oleomargarin is a legitimate article of 
conmierce so long as it is sold under its proper name, but you can not prevent its 
being sold very largely as T)utter. I do not believe it is possible to prevent oleo- 
margarin taking the place of at least 30 per cent of the butter sold, but it will take 
its place at the price of butter; that is, they will sell oleomargarin under the name 
of butter; and I do not believe, furthermore, that under that plan it is i^ossible to 
keep it out. 

USE AND ADULTERATION OF MILK. 

The Morning Oregonian, a paper that makes no mistakes when talk- 
ing upon a subject in which its readers are directly interested, says: 

The fight against butterin and oleomargarin is one that has been waged fiercely 
between those who desire to protect the human stomach from being made an unwill- 
ing receptacle for the cast-off oils and fats of pork houses, and those who see in the 
process an enormous pecuniary profit. Spurious butter, however attractive it may 
be made to appear, has only to be known by its name to be repudiated as containing 
all the possibilities of filth concealed by the cunning of the manufacturer from the 
perception of taste, sight, and smell. 

Then comes the pepsin '^racket," which is as follows: 1 pint of milk, 1 ounce 
of salt, 6 grains of pepsin, 12 grains of sodium sulphate, and 1 pound of butter. 
Warm the mixture to blood heat, then agitate or churn the mixture, and the result 
will be 2 j)ounds 1 ounce and 18 grains of good-looking butter, A glance at this 
compound will show that it is within a few ounces of being half water, and if 
it should happen that the pound of butter used had over 14 per cent water, then the 
compound would be half water. 

As far back as history goes we nnd milk spoken of as a most important and pala- 
table article of food, and in ancient times it was considered to contain many hidden 
virtues. Boerhave appears to have been the first to make a qualitative examination 
of milk, and speaks at some length on the danger of using milk from diseased or 
improperly fed animals. Milk is a fluid secreted by the mammary glands of animals 
for the support and nourishment of their young, and consists of an emulsion of fats 
in a solution of casein and sugar, together with certain inorganic salts. The color 
of milk is due to the fat globules, which can be readily seen with the aid of a 
microscope. It is claimed that 222,000,000 of these globules will not more than fill an 
inch square of space. Up to the seventeenth century only three of the constituents 
of milk had been discovered, viz, butter, cheese, and whey. Even birds and plants 
secrete a fluid similar in composition to milk. In civilized countries cow's milk is 
principally consumed; in Africa, that of the camel; in Tartary and Siberia, that of 
the mare ; in India, the buffalo's ; in Lapland, the reindeer's ; in China, until a 
comparatively recent date, sow's milk was generally consumed. Milk is especially 
adapted for the support of the young of animals, because it contains all the com- 
ponents of a mixed food, each for its kind. 

An examination of the needs of the body shows that definite amounts of carbon, 
hydrogen, nitrogen, and oxygen are required daily, depending on the amount lost 
by the body and the organs used. An excess beyond this is needed by the young 
animal to furnish material for growth. In milk, casein supplies the nitrogen ; sugar 
and fat, in a great measure, the carbon; the salts, the mineral constituents; and 
the water, the water needed by the body. It is for this reason that cow's milk must 
be diluted before being given to infants, as the percentage of casein is too large. 
Should it not be diluted then the infant has to digest the excess of casein, and so 
give its digestive organs more work to do, thus permanently injuring them. 



58 

In tills, as in many otlier countries, cow's milk is tlie sort used almost entirely, 
and when we consider tliat two-thirds of our infant population are brought up on 
other than human milk, viz, cow's, and that nearly all children partake more or 
less largely of cow's milk, to say nothing of its general use, we can at once see the 
necessity of a pure milk supply. This is particularly necessary when milk is used 
as substitute for mother's milk, for cow's milk, although the best we can get, is 
still different in its chemical properties and amounts of its constituents, and any 
adulterations only tends to increase this differeisce, and consequently its indiges- 
tibility is greater. As, for instance, in skim milk the per cent of fat is too small, 
while the per cent of casein is too large, or by adulteration with water the per cent 
of the solid constituents is lowered, and more of such milk must be digested in 
order that the body may obtain sufficient nourishment. 

The adulteration of milk, however, is a question that needs special and careful 
attention, as it is not only one of the most important articles of diet, but is 
undoubtedly the most susceptible of being contaminated by the absorption of 
impurities from its surroundings, as well as being easily injured by the food given 
the cow, its purity depending largely upon what she eats and the water she drinks. 
The health of the animal is also another important question, as it is a well recog- 
nized fact that tuberculosis in the cow engenders it in the system of those who use 
the milk. For the reason that tuberculosis is known to be among the cattle in this 
State, I have asked Dr. Withy combe, our very competent State veterinarian, to 
supply me with a short paper. He says : 

" Tuberculosis is the bane of the human family, and among the potent agencies, 
in conveying this dangerous and subtle malady to children is milk. Recent scien- 
tific investigations have been the means of throwing much light on the propaga- 
tion of tuberculosis. It is estimated by good authority that from 5 to 20 per cent 
of cows in the vicinity of large cities are affected with tuberculosis. It is not the 
proximity of the city which tends to the development of the disease, but it is alto- 
gether due to the conditions under which the animals are kept. Close confinement, 
improper ventilation, unwholesome food, long periods of heavy milking, are some 
of the evils which have a tendency to weaken the vitality of the cows and render 
them peculiarly susceptible to the disease." The great problem to solve at the 
present is, how can we detect the disease in the living subject with a certainty? 
Physical examination and microscopical inspection of milk have utterly failed to 
reveab the presence of the disease in numerous cases. 'According to Collinger, 
the milk of 11 out of 20 cows suffering from tuberculosis was infectious, although 
the actual bacilli could be discovered in but one sample.' The very best medical 
and veterinary experts, after a careful physical examination, failed to detect the 
presence of the disease in cows that were afterwards subjected to the Koch test, 
which test proved a complete success, the characteristic reaction and elevation, 
of temperature occurring in each case. Prof. Koch's lymph probably failed to 
accomplish and answer the jjurposes for which it was first intended, nevertheless 
it will probably prove to be the most valuable agent ever discovered to prevent 
the spreading of tuberculosis. Milk being largely the diet of children, this fact 
should remind us of the care and precaution Ave should exercise in furnishing this 
article of food free from death-breeding germs, especially the tubercular bacilli, 
which too often finds a suitable home in the delicate and sensitive tissues in the 
body of a child to execute its work of destruction." 

At this point I would also call special attention to the care of milk after having 
been received by the consumers. We all understand that if a cow eats impure food 
or inhales impure air that her milk will be iulluenced thereby. No food seems so 
peculiarly qualified to absorb impurities that come in contact with it as milk. So 
long as milk is warmer than the atmosphere, it is quite safe, for in that condition it 
resists and throws off approaching danger, but as soon as it becomes colder than the 
atmosphere, it not only absorbs, but the fact that it is colder necessarily condenses 



59 

the warmer nir, and as a result it receives ail the impurities that fall. Housekeepers 
should, therefore, he careful not ouly to have the vessel covered when set out to 
receive the milk from the milkman, hut they should be specially careful to keep the 
milk covered, whether it he iu the larder, cellar, or kitclieu. 

I have thus referred to milk because I believe if the people better understood the 

difference between human and cow's milk, there would not be so much sickness, and 

the cow's milk and the milkman would not be so often blamed. The only tests that 

I rely upon outside of analyses are to obtain the volume of cream, which should be 

at the very least 12 per cent, then get the specific gravity of the milk after the 

cream has been taken off, which should be close to 1.036. Every household should 

be supplied with conveniences to make these tests. There is a little German patent 

j tester that will test milk in a second to the satisfaction of almost any one. If milk- 

j men knew that their customers are taking these precautions they will furnish good 

I milk all the time. 

^ Realizing that grass is the natural food for milch cows, and that the pasture is 

their home, I have made their changed condition a study, so that the milk supply 
should not become unhealthful either by reason of diseased cows, unwholesome 
foods, water, or air, ever bearing in mind that unwholesome air is far more danger- 
ous to milk than the eating l)y cows of unwholesome food; for in the latter case 
digestion may overcome the impurities, while in the former, the air is taken into 
the lungs, and then to the blood, and milk being the direct product of the blood, 
would be sure to be impure. 

Unfortunately my predecessor had instructed many dairymen to use lime, or chlo- 
ride of lime, as a disinfectant, and they, like many others, not knowing that lime 
did the very thing they did not want done, Avere at a loss to know Avhy their cow 
stables were so unpleasant. After explainiyg to them that lime set free the offen- 
sive matter, ammonia, etc., and that gypsum (land plaster) not only attracted but 
held the impurities, we have no trouble. 

In this department of my duties I have had, free of expense, the kindly aid of 
Dr. James Withy combe, Oregon's worthy State veterinarian. 

AVhen I say the enforcement of the cubic-air provision of the law, giving eacli cow 
when stabled 800 feet of air, as well as prohibiting cows standing in their stables 
head to head unless there be an air-tight partition, and to see that cleanly surround- 
ings were furnished, has worked wonders, I speak the truth. 

In order to detect the adulteration of milk by the addition of water, or by the 
removal of cream, it becomes of great importance to determine whether the con- 
stituents of average milk vary between certain limits, and what these limits are. 
The constituents vary, more especially the fatty matter, according to age, breed, 
time before or after calving, the quantity of the food, condition of Che animal, etc. 
But even taking into consideration these facts, we find that nature in its endeavor 
to produce a healthy food for the young will, in a great measure, overcome sur- 
roundings Avhich are most antagonistic to the production of healthy normal milk. 
^ So much has been done to determine what the standard is below which pure, healthy 

milk never falls, that we now know with absolute certainty that the variation in 
the constituents of average milk is between certain defined limits. The milk of our 
cows is much better here than it is in the East. This fact is attributable to our 
richer food and equable climate. 

I had 15 analyses made of our dairy milk, which averaged specific gravity 
1.031 ; cream by volume, 15; sugar, 4.51 ; fat, 6.46; total solids, 14.51; solids not fat, 
9.42; ash, 0.727; albumen, 3.63; 0.72 not traced. I have for my guide the following: 
87.5 water, 3.2 fat, 9.3 solids not fat ; total solids, 12.5. 

Reliable authority reckons that one-half the people buy the butter and milk tliey 
consume, and that each person consumes 26 pounds of butter per annum. This tells 
■us that the people of this State buy and consume annually 4,550,000 pounds of butter, 
which, at 30 cents per pound, aggregates $1,365,000. 



60 

The same good authority shows that half the people of this State would consume 
7,971,500 gallons of milk, valued at $1,594,350; total butter and milk, $2,950,350. 
This exceeds the cash in all our banks; and when the value of the cows and imple- 
ments are considered this industry exceeds any other one, even that of wheat. 

Without desiring to accuse any class Avitli whom I have had to deal since holding 
the office of food commissioner, I must in justice say that very many of the dairies 
when I commenced my work were in a deplorable condition. Quite a number of 
cows were ordered out, and by order of Dr. Withycombe, State veterinarian, 2 or 
3 were killed. The fault lies in the fact that a large proportion of the milkmen 
are ignorant as to sanitary conditions. And, to me, the greatest work of our food 
law is, that it either forces or persuades milkmen to recognize such sanitary condi- 
tions as guarantee a healthful milk supply. And as the law of reversion is much 
swifter than that of progression, I anticipate that unless a watchful observance is 
kept up, most of the dairies would soon be as I found them. 

A NATIONAL STANDARD FOR CHEESE. 

Following is the address of W. S. Ebermaii, dxemist to the Minne- 
sota Dairy and Food Commission, delivered before the National Food and 
Dairy Commissioners' Association, held in Washington, D. C, in 1892: 

The activity of some of che leading cheese-makers of Ohio at the first meeting of 
the National Dairy and Food Commissioners' Association will not soon be forgotten. 
Especially were we impressed with one of the manufacturers, Mr. Straight, a shrewd, 
clear-headed, well-poised business man. This gentleman declared that there were 
not in the entire State of Ohio 3 factories which made straight, full-cream cheese 
the season or the year through. Mr. Straight made what might be termed an 
attempt at a very able defense with reference to the manufacture of skim and 
part skim cheese. He took the position that it required less than all the butter fat 
which was in whole milk to make a good and palatable cheese. 

At this point some exceedingly brisk firing commenced at short range. Hon. Hiram 
Smith, a veteran diaryman of Wisconsin, was there to fight for honest foods and hon- 
est dairy products. How nobly he defended the cause for which he had fought so 
long those of us who were there can bear proof. With Mr. Smith it was not what 
amoui^t of fat could be taken out of this or that month's milk to make a fair pala- 
table cheese of what was left. He said we could make no gauge for skimming out 
a certain amount of butter till we knew what there is of fat left in. What remains 
in and is actually incorporated in the cheese is what gives it its character. Here 
the keynote was struck, and as the several members took departure for home they 
were convinced that it paid in more ways than one to make the richest, purest, and 
most inviting cheese which the manufacturer was capable of producing. 

A dairy product that has reached the enormous worth of $40,000,000 per annum 
in the United States needs to be carefully husbanded. The necessity of making 
Avhole-milk cheese can not be urged too strongly on our cheese-makers. 

Prof. L. B. Arnold and Dr. Englehart made a series of experiments to test the 
digestibility of different makes of cheese. They found that the digestibility of 
whole-milk cheese, properly cured, dejiended on the amount of acids it contained. 
That which contained the least acid was the most digestible. That very much soured 
was the most indigestible. 

Prof. Arnold also contended for the superiority of sweet cured cheese. His teach- 
ings rejected at home were gladly accepted by the Canadians; hence the superiority 
of Canadian clieese. 

The meaty, mellow, rich-flavored cheddar is the cheese which most Americans 
prefer. 

The American stands ready to adopt cheese as an important item. of food as soon 



^i 



61 

as the cheese-raaker is ready to fulfill his share of the covenant. He roust put the 
whole milk into the cheese. It has been fully demonstrated by the best cheese 
instructors of the United States that 6 and even 7 per cent of fat can be worked 
into the milk and coagulated by the rennet. Thus a rich, wholesome, perfect 
cheese is the resultant product. 

Scientists and those who devote much attention to the relative value of different 
foods give cheese a prominent.place. There is no food which contains a larger per 
cent of nutrition when properly made and properly cured, especially when the 
cheese contains the proper elements of milk, i. e., fat. etc. 

Some of the unscrupulous dealers in our country have got hold of the export 
trade and have gone far towards ruining the market by palming off on foreigners a 
half-skimmed white-oak cheese which they can not find sale for at home. Is it not 
about time to call a halt and to insist on a change in the cheese business? Expose 
this species of dishonesty and adopt measures whereby the parties who practice 
deception may be brought to justice. To ask what shall be the national standard 
for cheese is apparently easy. However, it is not so readily answered. A quarter 
of a century ago we knew that a New York full-cream cheese was all that the brand 
implied. To-day the cheese branded New York full cream may, upon investigation, 
prove to be a skim-milk cheese, made of the rankest, rottenest kind of butter, lard, 
and other fats. 

During the year 1887 the dairy commissioner of Minnesota deemed it advisable 
to have a standard fixed for cheese. There was no precedent to guide us, as no 
State in the Union had taken a step in that direction. 

Data of a most satisfactory character were hard to obtain. It necessitated tlie 
taking of samples from each cheese factory in the State ; also a large number of 
samples was gathered from the stores and markets of the difierent towns of the 
State. The next step was to secure data from other States in order to make com- 
parison and to draw our conclusions. 

By a careful study of our own work and a close examination of analyses of cheese 
furnished from other States we ascertained that a cheese well made, properly 
handled, and properly cured would not contain less than 40 per cent of fats to total 
solids. Some may ask, why not make the standard 30 per cent of fats to the entire 
amount, regardless of total solids. Many of the States have a standard of milk fixed 
at 3.50 per cent of fat. To have a less per cent of fat for cheese would result in a 
lowering of the milk standard, and, besides, it would work an injustice to consumers 
of milk. 

Furthermore, it has been thoroughly demonstrated that a full-cream cheese well 
made, properly cured, and carefully handled until mature has about these constit- 
uents : 

Per cent. 

Water 32 

Fat / 35 

Casein 30 

Ash : 3 

Total 100 

During the past year we have had analyzed in our department 1,050 samples of 
cheese. Less than 5 per cent of the entire amount proved to be adulterated below our 
fixed standard, viz, 40 per cent of fat to total solids. The cheese of the State 
averaged nearly 50 per cent of fats to total solids. 

It is safe to presume that the full-cream cheese of Wisconsin, Iowa, New York, 
New Jersey, Vermont, and Massachusetts will be found to contain as high an average 
per cent of fat as the full-cream cheese of Minnesota. 



€2 

MILK STANDARDS. 

1^0 more important question arises than the quality of the milk used 
by the people, especially as upon its purity and strength depend the 
health and strength of the infants and life of invalids. The several 
States, cities, and larger towns have adopted laws relative to the sale 
of milk and regarding its purity. Some of'the standards are given 
below. A very fair standard to the seller would be as follows: 

Per cent. 

Total solids 12. 5 

Fat 3.25 

and such milk can be relied upon as healthy and pure. 

The board of health of Nashville, Tenn,, is authorized to inspect and 
test the milk sold in that city, and if it fall below the standard they 
may '^ cause of&cial publication of the fact to be made in the city i^ress." 
This board of health requires as a standard: 

Per cent. 

Milk solids 12. 5 

Water 87- 5 

Vermont, as shown in the report of the experiment station of that 
State for 1888 (p. 142), requires the following standard : 

Per cent. 

Total solids 12. 5 

Fat 3.25 

except in May and June, when the following is the standard : 

Per cent. 

Total solids 12. 

Fat 3.0 

Oregon, as shown in the food commissioners' report for 1893 (p. 95), 
reqMres the following standard : 

Per cent. 

Water 87. 5 

Fat 3.2 

Solids other than fat 9. -3 

Total solids : . . . 12.5 

Iowa, by act of the twenty-fourth general assembly, requires 3 i)ounds 
of butter fat to the 100 pounds of milk. 

New York, in its dairy law, chapter 202, section 8, requires 12 i^er 
cent of solids, and 25 per cent of such solids, or 3 per cent of the milk, 
shal be fat. 

Ohio, in section 4 of an act to amend section 4, found in vol. 86, p. 
229,230, says: 

Not more than 87 per cent ^^'atery fluid nor less than 12.5 per cent solids, not less 
than one-fourth of which must be fat. 

Wisconsin requires not less than 3 per cent of butter fat in milk. 



63 

Prof. P. Yieth, of tlie Britisli Society of Public Analysts, for the eleven 
years inclusive of 1881-1891, examined 120,540 sami^les of milk, and 
found an average of constituent parts as follows: 

Per cent. 

Total solids 12. 09 

Fat 4.01 

Solids not fat 8.8 

{See p. 664, Mass. Keport for 1891.) 

In the Massachusetts Health Keport for 1891 (p. 664), an analysis 
shows 13.2 to 13.3 per cent of total solids, and the same report gives 
this standard: Solids (except in May and June), 13 per cent; for May 
and June, 12 i)er cent. 

Dr. Abbott, secretary of the Massacliusetts State Board of Health, 
after quoting the analysis of Prof. Vieth, says: 

As a general rule, the figures presented by Prof. Vieth show that milk of the first 
half of the year was slightly below, and that of the last half slightly above, the 
yearly average, lu coumientiug upon the efitect of seasons upon milk, the same 
writer says : 

"A bad season for haymaking is, in my experience, almost invariably followed 
by a particularly low depression in the qnality of milk toward the end of winter. 
Should the winter be of unusual severity and length, the depression will be still 
more marked. Long spells of cold and wet, as well as of heat and drought, during 
the time when cows are kept on pasture, also unfavorably influence the qualitj^, and, 
I may add, the quantity, of milk." 

The foregoing remarks have reference only to milk as regarded from the stand- 
point of chemical analysis. To a certain extent this view of the subject has a bearing 
upon the public health, since the addition of water to milk, or the abstraction of 
cream, impairs its quality as nutriment in proportion to the extent of the adultera- 
tion. Strangely enough, the pretense is often urged by milk producers that milk 
containing 11 or 12 per cent of total solids is quite as wholesome or nutritious as 
that which contains 13 or 14 per cent of solids. The absurdity of this argument is 
plain enough, since, if it were true, it might reasonably be asserted that milk having 
7 or 8 per cent of solids is as wholesome as that which has 11 per cent, and so on ad 
infinitum. 

FOOD LEGISLATION AND FOREIGN TRADE. 

If proper legislation is adopted, without extending too much the army of office- 
holders or interfering too much with private enterprise, it will be of benefit in 
extending our foreign trade. — American Analyst. 

MAXIMUM WATER ALLOWABLE IN BUTTER. 

The following is an extract from the proceedings of the Public Ana- 
lysts, found in the London (England) Analyst for March, 1893: 

During the discussion Mr. Allen said that he had very strongly laid down in the 
witness box and elsewhere that 15 per cent was the maximum quantity of water to 
be allowed in butter, which could be raised to 16 per cent as an outside figure. He 
thought a rigid line should be drawn at 16 per cent and be believed that if that 
were done there would be very little difficulty in reducing the quantity of water in 
commercial butters to that amount. Some people could, no doubt, be found who 
would excuse even 35 or 40 per cent, and an inspector from the Cork butter market 
recently stated on oath that the proportion of water in the butter dependea on the 



64 

atmospheric conditions at the time tlie cows were milked. Similarly, Dr. Bell has 
recently stated tliat he did not see his way to regard butter as adulterated if it did 
not contain more water than had been known to be left in it when not manufac- 
tured for sale. This seemed to him to be practically making an incompetent dairy 
maid the referee under the food act. 

Mr. Helmer agreed that 15 i)er cent was a reasonable and liberal figure for water 
allowance. Butter fresh from the dairy, however, contained more water than butter 
which had been packed and transported to market. 

LABELING PKODUCTS TRUTHFULLY. 



Mr. F. N. Barrett, editor of the American Grocer, uucler date of 
March 27, 1893, says: 

I more than ever cling to the principle enunciated to you some time ago, that food 
laws should be simple and compel the sale of every thing for what it is, and then 
leave the consumer perfectly free to buy anything he wishes. I think it should be 
the province of the food commissioner to strengthen confidence in the integrity of 
the food supply rather than create distrust by reporting suspected articles. A great 
hue and cry is made over adulterated spices, but when one considers the quantity of 
spice used by any one individual as compared with the total amount of food con- 
sumed it is a mere bagatelle. Another thing — inspectors are apt to gather only 
samples of suspected food, and when a large proportion of these are found to be 
adulterated, it seems to appear a more glaring evil than it really is. For instance, 
there is carried on in the city of Philadeli^hia the manufacture of imitation coffee 
beans, molded to the shape of the roasted berry, but composed wholly of matter 
foreign to coffee beans. The proportion of such stuff sold to the total amount of 
cofitee consumed is scarcely worthy of notice, and yet such a hue and cry is raised 
over the few bogus beans sold as to create the impression that the coffee supply is 
terribly adulterated. 

With the Department of Agriculture on record as indorsing oleomargarin as a 
wholesome and valuable food product, it seems strange to find the food commis- 
sioners of the various States carrying on a vigorous crusade against the article and 
denouncing its venders in terms more fitting criminals than merchants in honorable 
trade. We must bear in mind that there are a great many articles sold that are 
classed as adulterations which are perfectly harmless and valuable as food prod- 
ucts. For instance, the German prefers his coffee mixed with chicory or with the 
addition of a slight proportion of caramel. There is nothing objectionable in this, 
and yet this product is condemned. The only point is that the mixture should be 
sold for what it is and then the responsibility rests with the consumer, who in case 
of injury has a remedy at law. 



LB Mr '08 



